Cable Crochet Christmas Stocking Pattern

The Olivette Christmas Stocking is a festive and elegant cable crochet Christmas stocking pattern, showcasing intricate crochet cable patterns that evoke a cozy, timeless charm.

Crafted with care, this stocking combines classic design with modern sophistication, making it the perfect addition to your mantle. Its generous size is ideal for holding thoughtful gifts and treats, adding warmth and tradition to your Christmas celebrations.

The cable crochet Christmas stocking pattern is free in the post below, or you can find an ad-free print friendly version (that includes all photo tutorials + a BONUS crochet cable stitch chart) on Ravelry, or on Etsy (aff). 

An olive green crochet Christmas stocking with celtic cables laying on a cream fur blanket with berries and pine cones.
I ordered personalized wood stocking tags and love them! If you’re crocheting a stocking as a gift, these personalized stocking tags make a great addition!

A cable crochet Christmas stocking is more than just a decoration—it’s a heartfelt expression of holiday cheer. Whether you’re making it for your own crochet Christmas decorations or gifting it to someone special, a Christmas stocking captures the warmth and joy of the season.

Why Choose a Cable Crochet Christmas Stocking?

Cable patterns are renowned for their elegant, textured appearance. Traditionally associated with knitting, cables have made their way into the crochet world, bringing a fresh take on classic holiday designs. A cable crochet stocking offers:

  • Timeless Appeal: The braided, rope-like textures of cables create a classic look that never goes out of style.
  • Customization Options: Adjust colors, sizes, and embellishments to match your holiday decor or personalize for loved ones.
  • Durability: Handmade stockings are sturdy and designed to last for years, becoming cherished family heirlooms.

Related: If you love cabled stockings, we have two other cable crochet Christmas stocking patterns: Big Bold Cabled Stocking and Braided Cables Christmas Stocking.

Tips for Crocheting Cables

  1. Master the Basics: Cable stitches often involve post stitches, like front post and back post double crochet. Practice these before starting your project.
  2. Follow the Chart: Many patterns include charts to help visualize cable designs. These are especially helpful for keeping your stitches aligned. The Ad-Free PDF includes a BONUS stitch chart!
  3. Work Slowly: Cables require attention to detail. Take your time to ensure your stitches are precise and uniform. Check out my 2 Tips for Proper Post Stitch Placement that are a huge help when crocheting cables!
  4. Block Your Work: After finishing, blocking your stocking can enhance the cable definition and give your project a polished look.
Green cabled crochet stocking with celtic cables hanging up with garland and poinsettias.

How To Get The

Olivette Cable Christmas Stocking Pattern

Option 1: Scroll down for the free crochet stocking pattern right here in this blog post.

Option 2: Purchase the ad-free printable PDF from one of my shops:

Decorating Ideas for Your Stocking

Once your cable crochet stocking is complete, it’s time to embellish and display it. Here are a few ideas:

Crochet Stocking Yarn

For this crochet Christmas sock, I chose Lion Brand Yarns Pound of Love in Olive.

Pound of love is a premium acrylic, worsted weight yarn that is currently available in 38 colors. It’s soft on the hands while crocheting, yet sturdy enough to hold its shape for this cable crochet Christmas stocking pattern.

What is the BEST yarn to use for crochet Christmas stockings?

When searching for crochet Christmas patterns, you’ll find that the most popular weight of yarn used for crochet stockings is worsted weight yarn. Worsted weight yarn is not only durable, it also works up pretty quickly. 

Worsted weight yarns are great for both simple crochet stitch pattern stockings and crochet stockings with cables.

The following are my favorite worsted weight yarns to use for Christmas stockings: Lion Brand Pound of LoveLion Brand Vanna’s Choice, and Lion Brand Wool Ease

The cable crochet Christmas stocking pattern is free below, but if you love to work offline, or need to order your yarn, I’ve got a couple other great options for you.

Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF for the stacked diamonds stocking crochet pattern that includes all photo tutorials, Plus a BONUS crochet stitch chart, on Ravelry, or Etsy (aff).

Save this pattern to your Ravelry favorites.

Pin it to Save it for Later.

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This post contains affiliate links.

Materials

Abbreviations (U.S. Terms)

Experience Level

  • Intermediate

Size

  • One Size: 6.75″W  x 17″L (laid flat)

Gauge

  • In Hhdc, with a 5mm hook: 8 sts = 2″; 4 rows = 1.25″

Special Stitches

  • Extended Single Crochet (ext sc): Insert hook into stitch indicated, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 1 loop on hook, yo, pull thru remaining two loops on hook.
  • Herringbone Half Double Crochet (Hhdc): Yo insert hook into designated stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop and pull it through 1 loop on hook, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops on hook.
  • FLO Herringbone Half Double Crochet Decrease (FLO Hhdc2tog): Yo, insert your hook into the FLO of each of the next 3 sts, yo, pull up a loop and pull this loop through 1 loop on hook, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops on hook.
  • Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc): Yo, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the indicated stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 2 loops, yo, pull thru remaining 2 loops.
  • Front Post Treble Crochet (fptr): Yo 2 twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the designated stitch, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull thru 2 loops) 3 times.
  • Front Post Double Crochet Decrease (fpdc2tog): (yo, insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 2 loops on your hook) twice, yo, pull thru remaining three loops on your hook.
  • Join yarn with a standing single crochet: Begin with a slip knot on your hook, insert your hook into the stitch or space indicated, yo, pull up a loop, yo and draw thru both loops on hook.

Pattern Notes

  • Turning chains are not included in stitch count unless noted otherwise.
  • Yarn Notes: The stocking shown was made using Lion Brand Yarn Pound of Love. Other yarns can be substituted as long as gauge is met.
  • Lion Brand Yarn Pound of Love, worsted weight yarn, 100% Premium Acrylic, (solids: 1,020 yards / 454 g / 16 oz / 932 m)
  • Yardage & Color: Olive #550-172T / 420 yards
  • Construction Notes: This cabled Christmas stocking is worked from the top down beginning at the cables. After working the leg of stocking, a short row heel is added. After the heel, stitches are picked up to work the foot of stocking, then the toe is made. Four rounds of single crochet cuff are added to the top edge to finish it off. Finish with a hanging loop and tassel.

Olivette Cable Crochet Christmas Stocking Pattern

Leg of Stocking

Note: This section is worked in continuous rounds (a spiral). Do not join at the end of each round, instead use a scrap piece of yarn to keep track of the beginning of each round. Move the scrap of yarn up as you complete each round.

Note #2: Because it’s worked in a spiral, you may notice a slight lean/twist in your stocking as you are crocheting. This is normal and will straighten out when the stocking is in use and the stitches loosen up. You can also block it once you’ve finished and encourage the stitches to straighten out more quickly.

Set-Up: With yarn & a 5.00mm crochet hook, ch 58, being careful not to twist the ch, sl st into the back hump of the 1st ch.

Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, working into the back humps of the foundation chain, sc in each ch around. Do not join. (58 sts)

Rnd 2: Hhdc in the first st, *fpdc around each of the next 4 sts, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, fpdc around each of the next 2 sts, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, fpdc around each of the next 2 sts, ext sc in the next st, fpdc around each of the next 2 sts, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, fpdc around each of the next 2 sts, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, fpdc around each of the next 4 sts*, Hhdc in each of the next 2 sts, rep from * to *, then Hhdc in the last st. Do not join. (58 sts)

Rnd 3: Hhdc in the first st, *skip each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the 2 skipped post sts, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in the next st, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, skip each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the 2 skipped post sts*, Hhdc in each of the next 2 sts, rep from * to *, then Hhdc in the last st. Do not join. (58 sts)

Green crochet Christmas stocking with a celtic crochet cable stitch pattern round 3.
This photo shows Round 3 complete.

Rnd 4: Hhdc in the first st, *fpdc around each of the next 4 post sts, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, skip each of the next 2 post sts & skip the next ext sc, fptr around each of the next 2 post sts, working behind the fptr’s just worked, ext sc in the skipped ext sc, working in front of the fptr’s worked, fptr around each of the 2 skipped post sts, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, fpdc around each of the next 4 post sts*, Hhdc in each of the next 2 sts, rep from * to *, then Hhdc in the last st. Do not join. (58 sts)

Green crochet Christmas stocking with a celtic crochet cable stitch pattern round 4.
This photo shows Rnd 4 in process.

Rnd 5: Hhdc in the first st, *skip each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the 2 skipped post sts, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, Hhdc in the top of the next post st, fpdc around the same post st as the Hhdc just worked in, fpdc around the next post st, skip each of the next 2 ext sc, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in the top of the same post st as the fpdc just worked around, ext sc in the next st, ext sc in the top of the next post st, fpdc around the same post st as the ext sc just worked in, fpdc around the next post st, skip each of the next 2 ext sc, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, Hhdc in the top of the same post st as the last fpdc just worked around, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, skip each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the 2 skipped post sts*, Hhdc in each of the next 2 sts, rep from * to *, then Hhdc in the last st. Do not join. (58 sts)

Green crochet Christmas stocking with a celtic crochet cable stitch pattern round 5.
This photo shows Rnd 5 in process.

Rnd 6: Hhdc in the first st, *fpdc around each of the next 4 post sts, Hhdc in each of the next 4 sts, skip each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the 2 skipped post sts, ext sc in each of the next 3 sts, skip each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the 2 skipped post sts, Hhdc in each of the next 4 sts, fpdc around each of the next 4 post sts*, Hhdc in each of the next 2 sts, rep from * to *, then Hhdc in the last st. Do not join. (58 sts)

Green crochet Christmas stocking with a celtic crochet cable stitch pattern round 6.
This photo shows Rnd 6 complete.

Rnd 7: Hhdc in the first st, *skip each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the 2 skipped post sts, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, skip the next st, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in the top of the same post st as the fpdc just worked, ext sc in the next post st, fpdc around the same post st as the ext sc just worked in, fpdc around the next post st, skip the next ext sc, ext sc in the next st, skip the next ext sc, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in the top of the same post st as the fpdc just worked, ext sc in the next post st, fpdc around the same post st as the ext sc just worked in, fpdc around the next post st, skip the next Hhdc, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, skip each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the 2 skipped post sts*, Hhdc in each of the next 2 sts, rep from * to *, then Hhdc in the last st. Do not join. (58 sts)

Green crochet Christmas stocking with a celtic crochet cable stitch pattern round 7.
This photo shows Rnd 7.

Rnd 8: Rep Rnd 4.

Green crochet Christmas stocking with a celtic crochet cable stitch pattern round 8.
This photo shows Rnd 8 complete.

Rnd 9: Rep Rnd 3.

Green crochet Christmas stocking with a celtic crochet cable stitch pattern round 9.
This photo shows Rnd 9 complete.

Rnd 10: Hhdc in the first st, *fpdc around each of the next 4 post sts, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in the next st, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, fpdc around each of the next 4 post sts*, Hhdc in each of the next 2 sts, rep from * to *, then Hhdc in the last st. Do not join. (58 sts)

Green crochet Christmas stocking with a celtic crochet cable stitch pattern round 10.
This photo shows Rnd 10 complete.

Rnd 11: Rep Rnd 3.

Green crochet Christmas stocking with a celtic crochet cable stitch pattern round 11.
This photo shows Rnd 11 complete.
Green crochet Christmas stocking with a celtic crochet cable stitch pattern round 12.
This photo shows Rnd 12 complete.

Rnd 12 – 27: Rep Rnds 4 – 11.

Green crochet Christmas stocking with a celtic crochet cable stitch pattern complete on the leg of the stocking.
This photo shows the Leg of Stocking complete and a locking stitch marker placed to mark the beginning of the heel.

Place Stitch Marker: At the end of round 27, place a stitch marker in stitch #51 to mark the beginning of the heel.

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Approximate length at this point is 8.5″.

Continue on to the Stocking Heel.

Stocking Heel

Note: This heel is a crochet short row heel.

Row 1 (RS): With yarn & a 5.00 mm crochet hook, begin by leaving an 8″ tail of yarn to sew gap closed in the next section, then join yarn with a standing sc in the st you marked with a stitch marker, sc in each of the next 15 sts. Turn. (16 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in next 10 sts. Turn. (10 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts. Turn. (4 sts)

Green Christmas sock with a short row heel.
This photo shows Rows 1 – 3 of the Heel complete.
  • Row 1 began at the green stitch marker and was worked to the left for 16 sts.
  • Row 2 began on the left and was worked for 10 sts.
  • Row 3 began on the right and worked for 4 sts.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, sc in next st of Row 1. Turn. (5 sts)

Green Christmas stocking short row heel working row 4.
This photo shows the first 4 sts of Row 4 worked. The yarn needle shows where to work the 5th stitch into the next stitch of Row 1.
Green Christmas stocking short row heel row 4 complete.
This photo shows the last stitch of Row 4 worked into the next stitch from Row 1 and Row 4 is complete.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in next 5 sts, sc in next st of Row 2. Turn. (6 sts)

Green Christmas stocking short row heel working row 5.
This photo shows the first 5 sts of Row 5 worked. The yarn needle shows where to work the 6th stitch into the next stitch of Row 2.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, sc in next st of Row 1. Turn. (7 sts)

Green Christmas stocking short row heel working row 6.
This photo shows the first 6 sts of Row 6 worked. The yarn needle shows where to work the 7th stitch
into the next stitch of Row 1.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, sc in next st of Row 2. Turn. (8 sts)

Row 8: Ch 1, sc in next 8 sts, sc in next st of Row 1. Turn. (9 sts)

Row 9: Ch 1, sc in next 9 sts, sc in next st of Row 2. Turn. (10 sts)

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in next 10 sts, sc in next st of Row 1. Turn. (11 sts)

Row 11: Ch 1, sc in next 11 sts, sc in next st of Row 2. Turn. (12 sts)

Row 12: Ch 1, sc in next 12 sts, sc in next st of Row 1. Turn. (13 sts)

Row 13: Ch 1, sc in next 13 sts, sc in next st of Row 2. Turn. (14 sts)

Row 14: Ch 1, sc in next 14 sts, sc in next st of Row 1. Turn. (15 sts)

Row 15: Ch 1, sc in next 15 sts, sc in next st of Row 2. Do not turn. (16 sts)

The short row heel is complete on a cabled crochet Christmas stocking.
This photo shows the short row heel complete and a stitch marker placed into stitch #9 from
the last row of the heel. This SM marks where to join yarn to begin the Foot of Stocking.

Place Stitch Marker: Place a stitch marker in st #9 to mark the beginning of the Foot of Stocking.

Side view of a short row heel on a green cabled stocking.
This photo is a side view of the completed short row heel.

Fasten off leaving an 8″ tail of yarn to sew gap closed in the next section.

Foot of Stocking

Note: This section is worked in continuous rounds (a spiral). Do not join at the end of each round, instead use a scrap piece of yarn to keep track of the beginning of each round. Move the scrap of yarn up as you complete each round.

Note about Rnd 1: This round is very similar to Rnd 4 of the Leg of Stocking. The only difference is that the first and last 8 stitches of the round are worked into the stitches of the heel.

Rnd 1 (RS): With yarn & a 5.00mm crochet hook, join yarn with a sl st in the st marked with a SM, ch 1, Hhdc in the same st, fpdc around each of the next 4 sc of the heel, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts of the heel, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, skip each of the next 2 post sts & skip the next ext sc, fptr around each of the next 2 post sts, working behind the fptr’s just worked, ext sc in the skipped ext sc, working in front of the fptr’s worked, fptr around each of the 2 skipped post sts, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, fpdc around each of the next 4 post sts, Hhdc in each of the next 2 sts, fpdc around each of the next 4 post sts, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, skip each of the next 2 post sts & skip the next ext sc, fptr around each of the next 2 post sts, working behind the fptr’s just worked, ext sc in the skipped ext sc, working in front of the fptr’s worked, fptr around each of the 2 skipped post sts, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, Hdc in each of the next 3 sts of the heel, fpdc around each of the next 4 sc of the heel, Hhdc in the last st of the heel. Do not join. (58 sts)

This photo shows how to pick up stitches across the heel of the stocking.
This photo shows the short row heel complete and the first round of the Foot of Stocking being
worked. Note the green SM, this was to mark where to join yarn to begin the foot of stocking.
Close-up to show a gap created after the heel that you need to sew closed.
In this photo, stitches have been worked across the heel, then show how you jump down to the last
round of the leg and fpdc around the previous post stitches.

Tip! After working Round 1 of the Foot of Stocking, use a yarn needle and tails of yarn to stitch closed the small gaps near the first and last stitches of the heel. It’s easier to do this now, rather than waiting until you’ve completed your stocking. See photos below.

A gap on the opposite side of the heel that also needs to be sewn closed.
This photo shows one of the gaps created at the corner of a heel in round 1 of the foot of stocking.
A yarn needle showing how to sew the gap in the heel closed.
This photo shows a yarn needle and tail of yarn being used to close one of the gaps between the
heel and Rnd 1 of the foot.
A close up to show the gap closed.
This photo shows one of the gaps near the heel closed. Repeat for the opposite side of the heel.

Rnd 2: Hhdc in the first st, *skip each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the 2 skipped post sts, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, Hhdc in the top of the next post st, fpdc around the same post st as the Hhdc just worked in, fpdc around the next post st, skip each of the next 2 ext sc, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in the top of the same post st as the fpdc just worked around, ext sc in the next st, ext sc in the top of the next post st, fpdc around the same post st as the ext sc just worked in, fpdc around the next post st, skip each of the next 2 ext sc, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, Hhdc in the top of the same post st as the last fpdc just worked around, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, skip each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the 2 skipped post sts*, Hhdc in each of the next 2 sts, rep from * to *, then Hhdc in the last st. Do not join. (58 sts)

Rnd 3: Hhdc in the first st, *fpdc around each of the next 4 post sts, Hhdc in each of the next 4 sts, skip each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the 2 skipped post sts, ext sc in each of the next 3 sts, skip each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the 2 skipped post sts, Hhdc in each of the next 4 sts, fpdc around each of the next 4 post sts*, Hhdc in each of the next 2 sts, rep from * to *, then Hhdc in the last st. Do not join. (58 sts)

Rnd 4: Hhdc in the first st, *skip each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the 2 skipped post sts, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, skip the next st, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in the top of the same post st as the fpdc just worked, ext sc in the next post st, fpdc around the same post st as the ext sc just worked in, fpdc around the next post st, skip the next ext sc, ext sc in the next st, skip the next ext sc, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in the top of the same post st as the fpdc just worked, ext sc in the next post st, fpdc around the same post st as the ext sc just worked in, fpdc around the next post st, skip the next Hhdc, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, skip each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the 2 skipped post sts*, Hhdc in each of the next 2 sts, rep from * to *, then Hhdc in the last st. Do not join. (58 sts)

Rnd 5: Hhdc in the first st, *fpdc around each of the next 4 post sts, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, skip each of the next 2 post sts & skip the next ext sc, fptr around each of the next 2 post sts, working behind the fptr’s just worked, ext sc in the skipped ext sc, working in front of the fptr’s worked, fptr around each of the 2 skipped post sts, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, fpdc around each of the next 4 post sts*, Hhdc in each of the next 2 sts, rep from * to *, then Hhdc in the last st. Do not join. (58 sts)

Rnd 6: Hhdc in the first st, *skip each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the 2 skipped post sts, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in the next st, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, skip each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the 2 skipped post sts*, Hhdc in each of the next 2 sts, rep from * to *, then Hhdc in the last st. Do not join. (58 sts)

Rnd 7: Hhdc in the first st, *fpdc around each of the next 4 post sts, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in the next st, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, fpdc around each of the next 4 post sts*, Hhdc in each of the next 2 sts, rep from * to *, then Hhdc in the last st. Do not join. (58 sts)

Rnd 8: Rep Rnd 6.

Rnd 9: Rep Rnd 5.

Rnds 10 – 17: Rep Rnds 2 – 9.

Do not fasten off. Continue on to Toe. Length from the last row of the heel is approximately 5.25″.

Toe

Note: This section is worked in continuous rounds (a spiral). Do not join at the end of each round, instead use a scrap piece of yarn to keep track of the beginning of each round. Move the scrap of yarn up as you complete each round.

Rnd 1: Hhdc in the first st, *skip each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the 2 skipped post sts, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, Hhdc in the top of the next post st, fpdc2tog around the same post st as the Hhdc just worked and the next post st, skip each of the next 2 ext sc, fpdc2tog around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in the top of the same post st as the post st just worked, ext sc in the next st, ext sc in the top of the next post st, fpdc2tog around the same post st as the ext sc just worked and the next post st, skip each of the next 2 ext sc, fpdc2tog around each of the next 2 post sts, Hhdc in the top of the same post st as the fpdc2tog just worked, Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, skip each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the next 2 post sts, fptr around each of the 2 skipped post sts*, Hhdc in each of the next 2 sts, rep from * to *, then Hhdc in the last st. Do not join. (50 sts)

Rnd 2: Hhdc in the first st, *fpdc2tog twice, Hhdc in each of the next 4 sts, fpdc2tog twice, ext sc in each of the next 3 sts, fpdc2tog twice, Hhdc in each of the next 4 sts, fpdc2tog twice*, Hhdc in each of the next 2 sts, rep from * to *, then Hhdc in the last st. Do not join. (38 sts)

Rnd 3: Hhdc in each st around. (38 sts)

Rnd 4: Hhdc in each of the first 2 sts, * FLO Hhdc2tog, Both Loops Hhdc in each of the next 4 sts, rep from * around. (32 sts)

Rnd 5: * Both Loops Hhdc in each of the next 3 sts, FLO Hhdc2tog, rep from * around to the last 2 sts, Both Loops Hhdc in each of the last 2 sts. (26 sts)

Rnd 6: * FLO Hhdc2tog, Both Loops Hhdc in the next st, rep from * around to the last 2 sts, FLO Hhdc2tog. (17 sts)

Fasten off leaving a tail of yarn. With the tail of yarn & a yarn needle, sew the toe closed. Weave in ends. Continue on to the Cuff.

Cuff

Note: This section is worked in continuous rounds (a spiral). Do not join at the end of each round, instead use a scrap piece of yarn to keep track of the beginning of each round. Move the scrap of yarn up as you complete each round.

Rnd 1 (RS): With yarn & a 5.00mm crochet hook, join yarn with a single crochet in a stitch at the top of the stocking near the back of the leg, sc in each remaining st around. Do not join. (58 sts)

Rnds 2 – 4: Sc in each st around. (58 sts)

Rnd 5: Sl st (aka surface crochet) in each st around. Join with a Special Join Technique.

Fasten off. Continue on to Hanging Loop & Decorative Yarn Tassel.

Hanging Loop

Using a 4.00mm crochet hook and yarn to match your stocking, ch 31, working into the back hump of the ch, sc in the 2nd ch from your hook and in each ch across. (30 sts)

Fasten off leaving an 8” tail. Using a yarn needle and the tail of yarn, fold the loop in half and sew it onto the inside of the stocking at the center back of the leg. Weave in ends. Make a Tassel, if desired.

Green cabled crochet stocking with celtic cables hanging up with garland and poinsettias.
A Cable Crochet Christmas Stocking combines timeless charm with intricate craftsmanship, making it a standout piece for your mantle.

I Made It! Now What?

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Happy Crocheting, Jennifer

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