Charlene Cabled Crochet Purse

Make yourself a crochet purse and you’ll have a stylish accessory that’s perfect for everyday use!

The Charlene Purse is a crochet purse pattern featuring cable stitch patterns that mimic traditional knitted cables. This bag is crocheted with two strands of yarn for added functionality and durability.

You’ll find the free crochet purse pattern below, or an ad-free print friendly PDF (including all photo tutorials + a BONUS crochet stitch chart) on Ravelry, or on Etsy (aff).

A young girl sitting on a black stool holding a green crochet purse with cables and pleats. — Perfect for everyday use, this cabled crochet purse adds a touch of handmade charm to any outfit.

The Charlene Purse Pattern includes two purse strap options.

For a completely handmade crochet purse, add a crochet purse handle. Or, customize your purse with store bought leather straps.

In this article

How to Crochet the Charlene Cabled Purse

The Charlene Crochet Purse is crocheted seamlessly from start to finish!

First, you’ll crochet a rectangle for the base of the purse. After completing the base of the bag, you’ll crochet around the rectangle to set up the stitches for the cabled portion of the bag.

Next, the body of the bag is worked in continuous rounds (aka crocheting in a spiral) around the perimeter of the base. There are cables on both the front and back of the purse and simple stitches on both short ends.

After crocheting the bag to the correct height, you’ll need to choose a strap option. This crochet purse pattern includes finishing instructions for adding leather purse straps, or crochet purse strap.

After completing the purse straps on your bag, you’ll crochet two long ties and weave them in and out of stitches along the short sides. These ties are used to create pleats on the sides of your purse.

Lastly, make four yarn tassels and attach one to each end of the crochet ties.

Related: If you like working from stitch charts, the ad-free PDF includes a BONUS crochet cables chart.

Tips for Crocheting Cables

Master the Basics: Cable stitches often involve post stitches, like front post and back post double crochet. Practice these before starting your project.
Follow the Chart: Many patterns include charts to help visualize cable designs. These are especially helpful for keeping your stitches aligned. The Ad-Free PDF includes a BONUS crochet stitch chart!
Work Slowly: Cables require attention to detail. Take your time to ensure your stitches are precise and uniform. Check out my 2 Tips for Proper Post Stitch Placement that are a huge help when crocheting cables!
Block Your Work: After finishing, blocking your stocking can enhance the cable definition and give your project a polished look.

A young woman shopping for clothing carrying a cream colored crochet purse with cables and leather straps.

How To Get The

Charlene Cabled Crochet Purse Pattern

Option 1: Scroll down for the free purse crochet pattern right here in this blog post.

Option 2: Purchase the ad-free printable PDF from one of my shops:

Ravelry

Etsy

Best Yarn for Crochet Bags

I typically recommend using 100% cotton yarn for a crochet purse bag for several reasons:

Cotton yarns are soft and durable.
Cotton yarns don’t pill easily.
They hold up well to several washes in a washing machine.
They show crochet stitch definition really well.
They keep their shape.
They don’t snag easily.
They’re fairly inexpensive.

My second favorite yarn to crochet a bag with is 2 strands of 100% worsted weight wool, but keep in mind that animal fibers have a tendency to felt. And my third choice is double stranded acrylic yarn with a smaller hook than what’s recommended on the yarn label (because acrylic is stretchier).

If you’re going to line a crochet bag with fabric, you can use any yarn you’d like because the fabric will bear the weight of the items you place in the bag.

Yarn

Although I really love to use cotton for crochet bags, for the Charlene Crochet Purse I chose to make two samples, each in a different yarn.

For the cream colored purse shown in the photos, I chose to double strand Lion Brand Yarns Fishermen’s Wool in Natural. Even though I double stranded my yarn to crochet this purse, I used the recommended hook size on the yarn label. This gave me the dense fabric I was looking for because I had no plans to line my bag.

For the olive colored purse shown in the photos, I chose to double strand Lion Brand Yarns Color Theory in Caper. I used a slightly smaller crochet hook than the size recommended on the yarn label because acrylic yarns tend to stretch more and I wanted to make sure my purse wouldn’t become saggy as it was being used.

A crochet purse with brown leather straps being held by a women in a green top and jeans who is leaning against a brick building.

Pin it to Save it for Later!

Crochet Purse Pattern

The free purse crochet pattern can be found below, but if you love to work offline, I’ve got a couple other great options for you.

Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF (includes a BONUS crochet cables chart), on Ravelry, or on Etsy (aff).

Purchase the ACRYLIC Crochet Purse Kit (aff): Lion Brand has a full kit of the Charlene ACRYLIC Crochet Purse, available on their website. The crochet kit includes your choice of colors of acrylic yarn and a digital copy of the crochet purse pattern.

Purchase the WOOL Crochet Purse Kit (aff): Lion Brand has a full kit of the Charlene WOOL Crochet Purse, available on their website. The crochet kit includes your choice of colors of wool yarn and a digital copy of the crochet purse patterns.

Save this pattern to your Ravelry favorites.

Pin it & Save it for later.

Subscribe to my YouTube Channel!

This post contains affiliate links.

Materials

Yarn: Worsted Weight / 4 weight yarn was used for this crochet purse pattern.
- Lion Brand Yarns Color Theory in Caper, worsted weight / 4 yarn, 100% Acrylic (246 yards / 225 m / 100 g / 3.5 oz)
  - Caper #619-173AE (4 balls)
  - Crochet Purse with Yarn Straps: 960 yards
- Lion Brand Yarns Fishermen’s Wool in Natural, worsted weight / 4 yarn, 100% Wool (465 yards / 425 m / 227 g / 8 oz)
  - Natural #150-098F
  - Crochet Purse with Leather Straps: 870 yards (2 balls)
  - Crochet Purse with Yarn Straps: 960 yards (3 balls)
Crochet Hook: H/8/5.00mm; or size needed to obtain gauge (My favorite crochet hooks are the Clover Amour Crochet Hooks, I’ve never had an ache in my hand since switching).
Scissors
Yarn Needle
Stitch Markers
(2) 24″ Leather Purse Straps (optional)
Needle & Thread (to attach leather straps)

Abbreviations (U.S. Terms)

ch(s): chain(s)
sl st: slip stitch
st(s): stitch(es)
sc: single crochet
scl: single crochet cluster
ext sc: extended single crochet
fpdc: front post double crochet
fptr: front post treble crochet
fpDtr: front post double treble
yo: yarn over
RS: right side
Rep: repeat
Rnd: round
yo: yarn over
Surface Crochet Tutorial
Special Join Technique

Experience Level

Intermediate

Size

One Size: 12″ W x 4.5″ D x 9″ H (not including straps)

Gauge

See individual sections for gauge.

Special Stitches

Extended Single Crochet (ext sc): Insert hook into stitch indicated, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 1 loop on hook, yo, pull thru remaining two loops on hook.
Single Crochet Cluster (scl): Insert hook into stitch indicated, yo, pull up a loop, yo, insert hook in same st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru all 3 loops on hook. You’ll actually have 6 loops on your hook because of the double stranded yarn.
Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc): Yo, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the indicated stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 2 loops, yo, pull thru remaining 2 loops.
Front Post Treble Crochet (fptr): Yo 2 twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the designated stitch, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull thru 2 loops) 3 times.
Front Post Double Treble Crochet (fpDtr): Yo 3 times, insert hook from front to back around post of indicated st, yo, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook), (yo, pull thru 2 loops) 4 times.

Pattern Notes

Turning chains are not included in stitch count unless noted otherwise.
Yarn Notes: Lion Brand Yarns Color Theory was used for the green sample. Lion Brand Yarns Fishermen’s Wool was used for the cream sample. Other comparable yarns may be used as long as gauge is met.
Lion Brand Yarns Color Theory in Caper, worsted weight / 4 yarn, 100% Acrylic (246 yards / 225 m / 100 g / 3.5 oz)
Lion Brand Yarns Fishermen’s Wool in Natural, worsted weight / 4 yarn, 100% Wool (465 yards / 425 m / 227 g / 8 oz)
Yardage & Colors
- Color Theory: Caper #619-173AE
- Fishermen’s Wool: Natural #150-098F
Yardage for Purse with Yarn Straps: 960 yards
Yardage for Purse with Leather Straps: 870 yards
Purse Construction: This purse is crocheted by holding 2 strands of worsted weight yarn together as one. You’ll first crochet the bag base back and forth in rows. The body of the bag is then worked in continuous rounds (a spiral) around the bag base. After completing the body of the bag, you’ll crochet the top edge. If making yarn straps, you’ll crochet them while finishing the top edge of the bag. If using leather straps, you’ll sew them onto the bag. Lastly, create ties with crocheted chains and weave them into the short ends of the bag, tie them to gather the ends of the bag. Make and attach yarn tassels to the ends of the ties, if desired.

Important Notes About Cables & Post Stitches

Keep these notes in mind while you crochet a purse. They will help you properly place your stitches, especially when your post stitches are moving horizontally, outward and inward.

Unwritten Rule of Post Stitches: When working post stitches, you are working around the post of a stitch. This means that you always skip over the top loops of 1 stitch behind each post stitch. If you do not skip over those top loops, you’ll end up increasing your overall stitch count. **I believe that most of us do this without even thinking about it, but when it comes to using the post stitches to create cables that move, we forget about that little tidbit.
Pay REALLY close attention to wording; it is very literal. The pattern always says “fpXX around next post st“. Except for Round 1 of the Body of Bag (which is the first row of post stitches) you will work EVERY post stitch around a post stitch from the previous post stitch row (not around a sc). In short, make sure to work EVERY post stitch from Row 2 or later, around the post of a post stitch from the previous cable row and your post stitches will be where they need to be.
To achieve proper movement of post stitches, you may be working into BOTH the top loops of a post stitch and around it. Watch wording carefully and make sure to always skip the top loops of 1 stitch behind every post stitch.
To maintain post stitch movement and stitch count, there are also times when you will not be working into an ext sc. Count stitches and pay special attention to wording.

Charlene Free Purse Crochet Pattern

Bag Base

Gauge: In sc: 14 sts = 4″; 15 rows = 4″

Reinforced Base: If you prefer to reinforce the base of your crochet purse, crochet 1 base through Row 41 and fasten off. Crochet the second base through Row 41, then hold both bases together and complete round 42, working through both bases. If you choose to crochet a second base, you will need more yarn than what is listed above.

Row 1: Holding 2 strands of yarn together as one strand & using a 5.00mm crochet hook, ch 15, working into the back hump of the ch, sc in the 2nd ch from your hook and in each ch across. Turn. (14 sts)

Rows 2 thru 41: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (14 sts)

An olive green crochet rectangle for the base of a crochet purse. — Rows 1 – 41 of the base complete.

Rnd 42: Ch 1, sc in each st across Row 41, rotate and sc in the side of each row and each st around to the 1st st of this row. Do not join the round with a sl st. (112 sts) Note: You will have 14 sts on each short edge and 42 sts along each long edge.

One round of single crochet worked around the edge of the purse base. — Round 42 of the base complete.

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Body of Bag. Bag Base should be approximately 4-1/2″ W x 11″ L.

Body of Bag

Gauge: In ext sc: 14 sts = 4″; 12 rows = 4″

Prepare for Rnd 1: BLO sl st in each of the next 7 sts along the short edge of the bag base. (This is only to move the working yarn to the middle of the short edge of the bag base.)

A close-up of the working yarn moved to begin the crochet purse. — This photo shows Prepare for Rnd 1 worked. You are simply BLO sl st to move the working yarn over.

Note: The Body of Bag is worked in continuous rounds to keep from having an unsightly seam. Do not join at the end of each round, instead use a scrap piece of yarn to keep track of the beginning of each round. Move the scrap of yarn up as you complete each round.

Learn Proper Post Stitch Placement in Rounds by A Crocheted Simplicity

Important Round 1 Tips

Round 1 is the cable set-up round. You will work the post stitches in Round 1, around the posts of the stitches from Round 42 of the base.

If you’re struggling with finding exactly where the post of the stitch is that you need to work a Round 1 post stitch around, make sure to check out my 2 Tips for Proper Post Stitch Placement. There is a quick video and a photo tutorial that will not only help you with this crochet cable purse, it will help you with all other crochet cable patterns.

Rnd 1 (RS): (ext sc in each of the next 7 sts, skip the next st, fptr around the next st, fptr around the skipped st, ext sc in each of the next 6 sts, skip the next st, fptr around the next st, fptr around the skipped st, ext sc in each of the next 5 sts, skip the next st, fptr around the next st, fptr around the skipped st, ext sc in the next st, skip each of the next 3 sts, fpDtr around each of the next 3 sts, fpDtr around each of the 3 skipped sts, ext sc in the next st, skip the next st, fptr around the next st, fptr around the skipped st, ext sc in each of the next 5 sts, skip the next st, fptr around the next st, fptr around the skipped st, ext sc in each of the next 6 sts, skip the next st, fptr around the next st, fptr around the skipped st, ext sc in each of the next 7 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times. (112 sts) *Do not join. Place a scrap piece of yarn after the last stitch of the round. Move the stitch marker up as you complete each round.

Rnd 2: [ ext sc in each of the next 6 sts, (skip the next st, fpdc around the next post st, ext sc in the top of the same post st as the fpdc just worked around, ext sc in the top of the next post st, fpdc around the same post st as the ext sc just worked in, skip the next st, ext sc in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in the next st, fpdc around each of the next 6 post sts, ext sc in the next st, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, (ext sc in each of the next 4 sts, skip the next st, fpdc around the next post st, ext sc in the top of the same post st as the fpdc just worked around, ext sc in the top of the next post st, fpdc around the same post st as the ext sc just worked in, skip the next st) work from ( to ) 2 times, ext sc in each of the next 6 sts ] work from [ to ] 2 times. (112 sts)

Rnd 3: [ ext sc in each of the next 5 sts, (skip the next st, fpdc around the next post st, ext sc in the top of the same post st as the fpdc just worked around, scl in each of the next 2 sts, ext sc in the top of the next post st, fpdc around the same post st as the ext sc just worked in, skip the next st, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, ext sc in the next st, skip the next post st, fptr around the next post st, fptr around the skipped post st, ext sc in the next st, fpdc around each of the next 6 post sts, ext sc in the next st, skip the next post st, fptr around the next post st, fptr around the skipped post st, ext sc in the next st, (ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, skip the next st, fpdc around the next post st, ext sc in the top of the same post st as the fpdc just worked around, scl in each of the next 2 sts, ext sc in the top of the next post st, fpdc around the same post st as the ext sc just worked in, skip the next st) work from ( to ) 2 times, ext sc in each of the next 5 sts ] work from [ to ] 2 times. (112 sts)

Rnd 4: [ ext sc in each of the next 4 sts, (skip the next st, fpdc around the next post st, ext sc in the top of the same post st as the fpdc just worked around, scl in each of the next 4 sts, ext sc in the top of the next post st, fpdc around the same post st as the ext sc just worked in, skip the next st) work from ( to ) 2 times, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in the next st, fpdc around each of the next 6 post sts, ext sc in the next st, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, (skip the next st, fpdc around the next post st, ext sc in the top of the same post st as the fpdc just worked around, scl in each of the next 4 sts, ext sc in the top of the next post st, fpdc around the same post st as the ext sc just worked in, skip the next st) work from ( to ) 2 times, ext sc in each of the next 4 sts ] work from [ to ] 2 times. (112 sts)

Rnd 5: (ext sc in each of the next 4 sts, fpdc around the next post st, ext sc in the next st, scl in each of the next 4 sts, ext sc in the next st, skip the next post st, fptr around the next post st, fptr around the skipped post st, ext sc in the next st, scl in each of the next 4 sts, ext sc in the next st, fpdc around the next post st, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, skip the next post st, fptr around the next post st, fptr around the skipped post st, ext sc in the next st, skip each of the next 3 post sts, fpDtr around each of the next 3 post sts, fpDtr around each of the 3 skipped post sts, ext sc in the next st, skip the next post st, fptr around the next post st, fptr around the skipped post st, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, fpdc around the next post st, ext sc in the next st, scl in each of the next 4 sts, ext sc in the next st, skip the next post st, fptr around the next post st, fptr around the skipped post st, ext sc in the next st, scl in each of the next 4 sts, ext sc in the next st, fpdc around the next post st, ext sc in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times. (112 sts)

Rnd 6: (ext sc in each of the next 4 sts, ext sc in the top of the next post st, fpdc around the same post st as the ext sc just worked, skip the next ext sc, ext sc in the next st, scl in each of the next 2 sts, ext sc in the next st, skip the next ext sc, fpdc around the next post st, ext sc in the top of the same post st as the fpdc just worked around, ext sc in the top of the next post st, fpdc around the same post st as the ext sc just worked, skip the next ext sc, ext sc in the next st, scl in each of the next 2 sts, ext sc in the next st, skip the next ext sc, fpdc around the next post st, ext sc in the top of the same post st as the fpdc just worked around, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in the next st, fpdc around each of the next 6 post sts, ext sc in the next st, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, ext sc in the top of the next post st, fpdc around the same post st as the ext sc just worked, skip the next ext sc, ext sc in the next st, scl in each of the next 2 sts, ext sc in the next st, skip the next ext sc, fpdc around the next post st, ext sc in the top of the same post st as the fpdc just worked around, ext sc in the top of the next post st, fpdc around the same post st as the ext sc just worked, skip the next ext sc, ext sc in the next st, scl in each of the next 2 sts, ext sc in the next st, skip the next ext sc, fpdc around the next post st, ext sc in the top of the same post st as the fpdc just worked around, ext sc in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times. (112 sts)

Rnd 7: (ext sc in each of the next 5 sts, ext sc in the top of the next post st, fpdc around the same post st as the ext sc just worked, skip the next ext sc, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, skip the next ext sc, fpdc around the next post st, ext sc in the top of the same post st as the fpdc just worked around, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, ext sc in the top of the next post st, fpdc around the same post st as the ext sc just worked, skip the next ext sc, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, skip the next ext sc, fpdc around the next post st, ext sc in the top of the same post st as the fpdc just worked around, ext sc in each of the next 3 sts, skip the next post st, fptr around the next post st, fptr around the skipped post st, ext sc in the next st, fpdc around each of the next 6 post sts, ext sc in the next st, skip the next post st, fptr around the next post st, fptr around the skipped post st, ext sc in each of the next 3 sts, ext sc in the top of the next post st, fpdc around the same post st as the ext sc just worked, skip the next ext sc, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, skip the next ext sc, fpdc around the next post st, ext sc in the top of the same post st as the fpdc just worked around, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, ext sc in the top of the next post st, fpdc around the same post st as the ext sc just worked, skip the next ext sc, ext sc in each of the next 2 sts, skip the next ext sc, fpdc around the next post st, ext sc in the top of the same post st as the fpdc just worked around, ext sc in each of the next 5 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times. (112 sts)

Rnd 8: [ext sc in each of the next 6 sts, (ext sc in the top of the next post st, fpdc around the same post st as the ext sc just worked, skip each of the next 2 ext sc’s, fpdc around the next post st, ext sc in the top of the same post st as the fpdc just worked around, ext sc in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in the next st, fpdc around each of the next 6 post st, ext sc in the next st, fpdc around each of the next 2 post sts, ext sc in each of the next 4 sts, (ext sc in the top of the next post st, fpdc around the same post st as the ext sc just worked, skip each of the next 2 ext sc’s, fpdc around the next post st, ext sc in the top of the same post st as the fpdc just worked around, ext sc in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, then ext sc in each of the next 2 sts] work from [ to ] 2 times. (112 sts)

Rnd 9: (ext sc in each of the next 7 sts, skip the next post st, fptr around the next post st, fptr around the skipped post st, ext sc in each of the next 6 sts, skip the next post st, fptr around the next post st, fptr around the skipped post st, ext sc in each of the next 5 sts, skip the next post st, fptr around the next post st, fptr around the skipped post st, ext sc in the next st, skip each of the next 3 post sts, fpDtr around each of the next 3 post sts, fpDtr around each of the 3 skipped post sts, ext sc in the next st, skip the next post st, fptr around the next post st, fptr around the skipped post st, ext sc in each of the next 5 sts, skip the next post st, fptr around the next post st, fptr around the skipped post st, ext sc in each of the next 6 sts, skip the next post st, fptr around the next post st, fptr around the skipped post st, ext sc in each of the next 7 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times. (112 sts)

Rnds 10 – 17: Rep Rnds 2 – 9.

Rnds 18 – 23: Rep Rnds 2 – 7.

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the instructions for the strap option that you’re making: Yarn Straps: Top Edge of the Bag & Straps, OR Leather Straps: Top Edge of Bag.

The bag portion of a cabled crochet bag laying flat on linen fabric. — This photo shows the Body of Bag complete.

Yarn Straps: Top Edge of Bag & Crochet Purse Straps

Rnds 1 – 2 (RS): Sc in each st around. Do not join (112 sts)

Before moving on to the next round, locate the centermost 23 stitches on both the front and backside of your bag. Use locking stitch markers to mark the 1st and 23rd stitches on both cabled sides of the bag. See Photo below. Continue on to the next round.

The top of a green crochet bag with two orange stitch markers marking where the yarn straps will be added. — The orange stitch markers are marking the centermost 23 stitches on one side of your bag.

Rnd 3: Sc into each st to the first SM, sc into the st marked with the SM, ch until you have a ch that’s 18″ long (or longer, if you prefer longer purse straps, but keep in mind that they will stretch a little), sc into the next st marked with a SM, sc into each st around to the next st marked with a SM, sc into the st marked with a SM, ch the same number of chs as your first strap, sc into the next st marked with a SM, sc into each remaining st around. Do not join. (70 sts + 2 18″ long chs) See Photo below.

A crochet chain long enough to create a strap for a purse. — This photo shows the long chain created to begin a yarn purse strap.

Rnd 4: Sc into each sc and ch (for the straps) around. Do not join. Stitch count will vary depending on how many chains you worked for each strap.

Rnds 5 – 6: Sc into each st around. Do not join.

Note: The purpose of the next round is to create a crochet bag strap that doesn’t stretch. It’s amazing how a simply round of slip stitches can keep crochet straps from stretching.

Rnd 7: Sl st (aka surface crochet) in each st around. Join with a Special Join Technique.

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Continue on to the Ties.

Close-up of a crochet purse with yarn straps and cables. — This photo shows a purse with the completed yarn straps.

Leather Straps: Top Edge of Bag

Rnds 1 – 2 (RS): Sc in each st around. Do not join (112 sts)

Rnd 3: Sl st (aka surface crochet) in each st around. Join with a Special Join Technique.

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Continue on to Attaching Leather Straps.

Attaching Leather Straps

Position a leather purse strap on one side of the purse as shown in the photo. Using a needle and coordinating thread, sew the leather strap onto the purse. Repeat for the second strap on the opposite side of the bag.

A close-up of leather straps sewn onto the top edge of a crochet purse. — The above photo shows the leather straps attached.

Continue on to the Ties.

Ties (Make 2)

Row 1: Holding 2 strands of yarn together as one strand & a 5.00mm crochet hook, create a chain that is 24″ long, then working into the back humps of the foundation ch, sl st into the 2nd ch from your hook and in each ch across. Stitch count is not crucial.

A crochet icord in cream colored yarn laying next to a blue crochet hook. — Fasten off. Make a second tie then continue on to Add Ties to Purse.

Add Ties to Purse

The ties are added to each end of the purse to create pleats. You’ll add them to Round 23 of the bag (the last round of ext sc and cable stitches). See photos below for more instructions.

Two black arrows pointing to the set of stitches that you'll work a crochet pleat over. — This photo is looking at one of the short sides of the bag. This is where you’ll begin weaving the ties through. Locate the 12 ext sc in the last round of the Body of Bag. You’ll weave a tie between ext sc stitches 4 & 5 and stitches 8 & 9.

A cream colored crochet icord being woven in a crochet purse to create a pleat. — From the inside of the bag, weave one end of a tie through to the outside between sts 4 & 5. Then weave the same end back through to the inside between sts 8 & 9. You should have 4 ext sc between the tie loop as shown above.

A blue crochet hook helping to pull the icord through a stitch in the bag. — I used a crochet hook for this next part. Insert your crochet hook from outside to inside through the space to the right of the post stitch shown. Use the crochet hook to grab the tie and pull it through to the outside of the bag.

The crochet icord being pulled through to form a pleat. — The crochet cord is pulled through the right side stitches.

A blue crochet hook inserted into a stitch on the opposite side to pull the icord through another hole. — Repeat for the opposite end of the tie (on the left). Insert your crochet hook from outside to inside through the space to the left of the post stitch shown. Use the crochet hook to grab the tie and pull it through to the outside of the bag.

A crochet icord woven through the end of a crochet purse to create a pleat. — Next, push the end of the bag inward and pull the tie ends to gather the end of the bag. Finish by tying in a bow.

The top view of a pleat on the end of a crochet bag. — This photo is a top view looking down at the gathered side of the bag.

A crochet icord tied into a bow after gathering a pleat on a bag. — This photo shows the tie, tied into a bow.

Tassels

After adding a tie to each short side of the purse, make and attach yarn tassels to each of the four ends of the ties, if desired.

I followed the yarn tassels tutorial and wrapped the yarn around 4 fingers, 15 – 20 times. After I completed my tassels, I attached one tassel to each end of the ties.

If you prefer not to add tassels to your ties, weave in all ends on the ties and your cabled bag is complete!

A young woman leaning on a brick wall holding a crochet cabled bag with leather straps. — The leather straps on the purse above were listed as 24″ L straps, but after attaching them, the actual strep length is approximately 20″ L.

Crocheting a purse is a fantastic way to express creativity while crafting a practical accessory. Whether you prefer a chic clutch, a trendy tote, or a classic crossbody, the possibilities are endless. With the right materials and a bit of patience, you can create a stylish, long-lasting purse that suits your needs.

I MADE IT! NOW WHAT?

Pin this post!: Save this free purse crochet pattern to your Pinterest boards so that you can come back and make it again.

Leave a comment below: We love to hear your feedback.

Share Your Finished Projects on Facebook or Instagram: I love to see your finished projects! Share with us on social media and tag me @acrochetedsimplicity or use the hashtag #ACrochetedSimplicity so I can find your posts.

Join us in the Facebook Community Group!

Come share your finished projects with us in the A Crocheted Simplicity Crochet Community Group on Facebook. Join us for fun community events such as crochet alongs, join in on crochet conversations, ask questions, get advice, and share your love for crochet!

More Free Patterns for Crochet Bags I Think You’ll Love

Summer Retro Tote Bag
Motif Market Tote Bag
Summer Essentials Beach Bag
Chevron Bobble Tote Bag
On the Bias Tote Bag – a crossbody crochet purse

More Crochet Patterns for Crochet Purses & Handbags

Are you looking for more crocheted purse patterns? We have several more free & premium crochet patterns for bags, backpacks, purses, and totes. We have a variety of free crochet bag patterns and premium crochet bag patterns.

Charlene Crochet Purse