Fireside Crochet Slipper Boots Free Pattern

The Fireside Crochet Slipper Boots Free Pattern is cozy and stylish and combines the comfort of slippers with the warmth of boots to keep your toes toasty.

The textured cuff was designed to mimic the appearance of a smocked knit fabric with the versatility of crochet and Lion Brand Yarns Hue & Me makes the boot quick to stitch up.

You’ll find the free crochet slipper boot pattern in the post below,  or you can find an ad-free printable PDF (that includes all photo tutorials), on Ravelry, or Etsy (aff).

Model wearing slipper boots and leggings with leg kicked up in front of Christmas tree.
Perfect for lounging at home, these slipper boots combine style and functionality for ultimate relaxation.

This knit-look smocked crochet slipper boots free pattern is for cozy and stylish footwear that combines the comfort of slippers with the warmth of boots.

Featuring a textured smocked stitch pattern that mimics a knit design, these slipper boots provide a snug fit and chic appearance. Perfect for lounging at home, they are crafted with soft yarn for warmth and you can add non-slip soles for added safety.

Play around with a variety of yarns, buttons, and embellishments to combine your own personal style with these ladies slipper boots!

If you love the Fireside crochet slipper boots, you may also love our Hibernation slipper boots.

How to Crochet Slipper Boots

These crochet slippers are made in three pieces and joined together.

First, you’ll crochet the soles and uppers of the slipper boot in rows.

Next, you’ll join the soles to the uppers by working single crochet around the perimeter of the sole.

Then you’ll crochet the ankle onto the slipper.

Lastly, you’ll crochet the mock smock crochet boot cuff and sew them onto the slipper boot.

How to Make Crochet Slippers Non-Slip

Handmade slippers are great, but they can be super slippery on hard surfaces!

When my kids were little and we had hardwood floors and stairs, I was always worried about them slipping and falling. So, when I started crocheting slippers for them, I wanted a fun, quick, and easy way to make the soles non-slip.

That’s when I remembered making non-slip socks with my friends for a high school sock hop. We used Tulip Puff Paint for our socks so I figured why not try it on the kids slippers… it worked great!

My kids loved being able to choose their own colors and help paint shapes on the soles of their slippers. They made little stars, hearts, and squiggly lines and their favorite was the glow-in-the-dark puff paint.

Although there are many great options to keep crochet slippers from slipping, such as Plasti Dip or sewing non-slip fabric onto the soles, I’ve found that the easiest, most fun, and most cost effective is Tulip Puff Paint!

Outdoor Crochet Soles: Another great option is to attach your slipper boots to an outdoor sole.

Yarn

For these women’s slipper boots, I wanted to make sure my toes would be toasty warm, and at the same time not have too much bulk around my ankles. Because of this, I chose to use Lion Brand Hue & Me bulky yarn to add extra warmth to these chunky crochet slipper boots and then Lion Brand Yarn Wool Ease to add lightweight, textured cuffs.

Hue & Me yarn is a chunky weight / 5 yarn that is an acrylic wool blend that is perfect for making warm slipper boots.

Lion Brand Wool Ease is a worsted weight / 4 yarns that’ perfect for adding a little style and texture to your slippers.

Size Chart & Yardage

  • Main Color: Lion Brand Hue & Me in Fatigues #617- 174W
  • CC: Lion Brand Wool Ease in Linen #620-096A
Fireside crochet slipper boot size and yardage chart.
A pair of womens slipper boots laying on a light woven fabric with wooden beads.
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The free slipper crochet pattern is below, but if you love to work offline, I’ve got a couple other great options for you.

Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF, including all photo tutorials, on Ravelry, or on Etsy (aff).

Purchase the slipper boot crochet kit! (aff): Lion Brand has a full kit of the Fireside Crochet Slipper Boots, available on their website. The crochet slipper kit includes your choice of colors and a digital copy of the crochet pattern.

Save this pattern to your Ravelry favorites.

Pin it & Save it for later.

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This post contains affiliate links.

Materials

  • Yarns: A combination of bulky/chunky weight and worsted weight yarns are used for these slipper boots.
    • Chunky Weight / 5 / Yarn, Lion Brand Yarns Hue & Me in Fatigues was used for the bootie portion of the slippers in the photos 80% Acrylic / 20% Wool (137 yards / 125 m / 125 g / 4.4 oz)
    • Worsted Weight / 4 / Yarn, Lion Brand Wool Ease in Linen, worsted weight / 4 yarn, 80% Acrylic / 20% Wool (197 yds / 180 m / 85 g / 3 oz)
  • Yardage: See Size Chart Above
  • Crochet Hooks: I/9/5.50mmG/6/4.00mm; or size needed to obtain gauge (My favorite crochet hooks are the Clover Amour Crochet Hooks, I’ve never had an ache in my hand since switching).
  • Locking Stitch Markers, or scrap of yarn
  • Scissors
  • Yarn Needle

Abbreviations (U.S. Terms)

  • ch(s): chain(s)
  • sl st(s): slip stitch(es)
  • st(s): stitch(es)
  • yo: yarn over
  • sp(s): space(s)
  • sc: single crochet
  • hdc: half double crochet
  • dc: double crochet
  • sc2tog: single crochet decrease
  • Join yarn with a standing single crochet
  • BLO: back loop only
  • FLO: front loop only
  • Rep: repeat
  • Rnd: round
  • SM: stitch marker
  • MC: main color
  • CC: contrasting color

Experience Level

  • Easy / Intermediate

Gauge

  • See individual sections for gauge.

Sizes

  • Women’s Sizes (U.S.): 5/6, 7/8, 9/10, 11/12

Special Stitches

Pattern Notes

  • Turning chains are not counted as stitches, unless noted otherwise.
  • The first stitch of each row is worked into the same stitch as the beginning chain, unless noted otherwise.
  • Yarn Notes: Lion Brand Yarns Hue & Me and Wool Ease were used for the sample. Other comparable yarns may be used as long as gauge is met.
  • Lion Brand Yarns Hue & Me, in Fatigues, bulky weight / 5 yarn, 80% Acrylic / 20% Wool (137 yards / 125 m / 125 g / 4.4 oz).
  • Lion Brand Wool Ease, in Linen, worsted weight / 4 yarn, 80% Acrylic / 20% Wool (197 yds / 180 m / 85 g / 3 oz).
  • Yardage & Colors – See Chart Above
  • Slipper Boot Construction: This crochet slipper boot pattern is made in three pieces and joined together. First, you’ll crochet the soles and uppers in rows. Next, you’ll join the soles to the uppers by working single crochet stitches around the perimeter. Then you’ll crochet the ankle onto the slipper. Lastly, you’ll crochet the smocked cuffs and whipstitch them onto the slipper.

Crochet Slipper Boot Pattern – Construction Notes

Scroll down to the individual size for the slippers you’re making and crochet the Soles, Uppers, and Ankles. Then continue scrolling down to the Mock Smock Slipper Cuff – All Sizes.

Progression photos of the soles, uppers, and ankles for all sizes can be seen below, just before the Slipper Cuff instructions.


Slipper Boots Size 5/6

Finished Size: Length: 9″ & Width: 3-1/2″

Yarn: Chunky / 5 / 150 yards

Gauge: 3 sc = 1″; 2.75 rows = 1″

Slipper Sole Size 5/6 – Make 2

Row 1: With MC yarn & a 5.50mm crochet hook, ch 3 (ch-2 counts as 1st dc), work 8 dc into the 3rd ch from your hook. Do not join. Turn. (9 sts)

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as a st), dc in the next st (not the same st as ch 2)(2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 ststwice, 2 dc in last st (last st is the top of ch 2 from beginning of Row 1). Turn. (12 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st5 times, 2 sc in last st (last st is the top of ch 2 from beginning of Row 2). Turn. (19 sts)

Row 4: Ch 1, rotate to work across the flat edge of the sole, work 1 sc in the side of each sc row and 2 sc in the side of each dc row. Turn. (10 sts)

Rows 5 – 10: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (10 sts)

Row 11: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (8 sts)

Rows 12 – 22: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (8 sts)

Row 23: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (6 sts)

Row 24: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog. (4 sts)

Note: If you have wide feet, you may get a better fit by working 1 sc in each stitch around your sole before continuing.

Fasten Off. Weave in ends.

Upper Size 5/6 – Make 2

Row 1: With MC yarn & a 5.50mm crochet hook, ch 6, working into the back hump of the ch, sc in the 2nd ch from your hook and in each ch across. Turn. (5 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, work 2 sc in each st across. Turn. (10 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 8 sts, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (12 sts)

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (12 sts)

Row 5: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 10 sts, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (14 sts)

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (14 sts)

Row 7: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 12 sts, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (16 sts)

Row 8: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (16 sts)

Row 9: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 14 sts, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (18 sts)

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (18 sts)

Row 11: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 16 sts, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (20 sts)

Rows 12 – 20: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (20 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Upper – Right Side.

Upper Size 5/6 – Right Side

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 5 sts. Before turning, skip each of the next 8 sts and place a SM in the 9th stitch to mark where to join yarn later for the Upper – Left Side. Turn. (6 sts)

Rows 2 – 11: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (6 sts)

Fasten Off. Continue on to the Upper – Left Side.

Upper Size 5/6 – Left Side

Row 1: With MC yarn & a 5.50mm crochet hook, join yarn with a standing sc in the st marked with a SM, sc in each of the next 5 sts. Turn. (6 sts)

Rows 2 – 12: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (6 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn. With a yarn needle and the tail of yarn you left, line up the last rows of the Upper Left & Right Sides and whipstitch them together. Weave in ends. Continue on to Join Sole & Upper.

Join Sole & Upper

Step 1: Lay the upper on top of the sole. Line up the center toe of the upper with the sole and use a locking stitch marker to hold the pieces together. Line up the center of each heel and use a locking stitch marker to hold them together.

Step 2: Place a few other locking stitch markers around the perimeter to hold the pieces in place while you seam them.

Step 3: With MC yarn & a 5.50mm crochet hook, join yarn with a standing sc in the back center of the heel (make sure to work through both layers of the sole & upper), sc evenly around the perimeter of the sole. Join yarn with a sl st to the 1st st. Stitch count is not crucial. Work as many sc around as needed to join the sole & upper.

Weave in ends. Continue on to the Ankle.

Ankle Size 5/6

Rnd 1: With MC yarn & a 5.50mm crochet hook, join yarn with a standing sc in the st nearest the center back of the heel, sc in each st and side of each row around. Join with a sl st to the 1st st. (31 sts)

Rnds 2 – 12: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (31 sts)

Fasten Off. Weave in ends. Continue on to the Mock Smock Slipper Cuff below.


Slipper Boots Size 7/8

Finished Size: Length: 9-3/4″ & Width: 4″

Yarn: Chunky / 5 / 165 yards

Gauge: 3 sc = 1″; 2.75 rows = 1″

Slipper Sole Size 7/8 – Make 2

Row 1: With MC yarn & a 5.50mm crochet hook, ch 3 (ch-2 counts as 1st dc), work 8 dc into the 3rd ch from your hook. Do not join. Turn. (9 sts)

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as a st), dc in the next st (not the same st as ch 2)(2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 ststwice, 2 dc in last st (last st is the top of ch 2 from beginning of Row 1). Turn. (12 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, 2 hdc in the first st, (hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st5 times, 2 hdc in last st (last st is the top of ch 2 from beginning of Row 2). Turn. (19 sts)

Row 4: Ch 1, rotate to work across the flat edge of the sole, work 1 sc in the side of each hdc row and 2 sc in the side of each dc row. Turn. (10 sts)

Rows 5 – 10: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (10 sts)

Row 11: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (8 sts)

Rows 12 – 24: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (8 sts)

Row 25: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (6 sts)

Row 26: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog. (4 sts)

Note: If you have wide feet, you may get a better fit by working 1 sc in each stitch around your sole before continuing.

Fasten Off. Weave in ends.

Upper Size 7/8 – Make 2

Row 1: With MC yarn & a 5.50mm crochet hook, ch 6, working into the back hump of the ch, sc in the 2nd ch from your hook and in each ch across. Turn. (5 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, work 2 sc in each st across. Turn. (10 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 8 sts, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (12 sts)

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (12 sts)

Row 5: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 10 sts, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (14 sts)

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (14 sts)

Row 7: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 12 sts, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (16 sts)

Row 8: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (16 sts)

Row 9: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 14 sts, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (18 sts)

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (18 sts)

Row 11: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 16 sts, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (20 sts)

Rows 12 – 15: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (20 sts)

Row 16: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 18 sts, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (22 sts)

Rows 17 – 22: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (22 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Upper – Right Side.

Upper Size 7/8 – Right Side

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 5 sts. Before turning, skip each of the next 10 sts and place a SM in the 11th stitch to mark where to join yarn later for the Upper – Left Side. Turn. (6 sts)

Rows 2 – 11: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (6 sts)

Fasten Off. Continue on to the Upper – Left Side.

Upper Size 7/8 – Left Side

Row 1: With MC yarn & a 5.50mm crochet hook, join yarn with a standing sc in the st marked with a SM, sc in each of the next 5 sts. Turn. (6 sts)

Rows 2 – 12: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (6 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn. With a yarn needle and the tail of yarn you left, line up the last rows of the Upper Left & Right Sides and whipstitch them together. Weave in ends. Continue on to Join Sole & Upper.

Join Sole & Upper

Step 1: Lay the upper on top of the sole. Line up the center toe of the upper with the sole and use a locking stitch marker to hold the pieces together. Line up the center of each heel and use a locking stitch marker to hold them together.

Step 2: Place a few other locking stitch markers around the perimeter to hold the pieces in place while you seam them.

Step 3: With MC yarn & a 5.50mm crochet hook, join yarn with a standing sc in the back center of the heel (make sure to work through both layers of the sole & upper), sc evenly around the perimeter of the sole. Join yarn with a sl st to the 1st st. Stitch count is not crucial. Work as many sc around as needed to join the sole & upper.

Weave in ends. Continue on to the Ankle.

Ankle Size 7/8

Rnd 1: With MC yarn & a 5.50 mm crochet hook, join yarn with a standing sc in the st nearest the center back of the heel, sc in each st and side of each row around. Join with a sl st to the 1st st. (33 sts)

Rnds 2 – 12: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (33 sts)

Fasten Off. Weave in ends. Continue on to the Mock Smock Slipper Cuff below.


Slipper Boot Size 9/10

Finished Size: Length: 10-3/4″ & Width: 4″

Yarn: Chunky / 5 / 180 yards

Gauge: 3 sc = 1″; 2.75 rows = 1″

Slipper Sole Size 9/10 – Make 2

Row 1: With MC yarn & a 5.50 mm crochet hook, ch 3 (ch-2 counts as 1st dc), work 8 dc into the 3rd ch from your hook. Do not join. Turn. (9 sts)

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as a st), dc in the next st (not the same st as ch 2)(2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 ststwice, 2 dc in last st (last st is the top of ch 2 from beginning of Row 1). Turn. (12 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, 2 hdc in the first st, (hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st5 times, 2 hdc in last st (last st is the top of ch 2 from beginning of Row 2). Turn. (19 sts)

Row 4: Ch 1, rotate to work across the flat edge of the sole, work 1 sc in the side of each hdc row and 2 sc in the side of each dc row. Turn. (10 sts)

Rows 5 – 11: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (10 sts)

Row 12: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (8 sts)

Rows 13 – 26: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (8 sts)

Row 27: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (6 sts)

Row 28: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog. (4 sts)

Note: If you have wide feet, you may get a better fit by working 1 sc in each stitch around your sole before continuing.

Fasten Off. Weave in ends.

Upper Size 9/10 – Make 2

Row 1: With MC yarn & a 5.50 mm crochet hook, ch 6, working into the back hump of the ch, sc in the 2nd ch from your hook and in each ch across. Turn. (5 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, work 2 sc in each st across. Turn. (10 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 8 sts, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (12 sts)

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (12 sts)

Row 5: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 10 sts, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (14 sts)

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (14 sts)

Row 7: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 12 sts, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (16 sts)

Row 8: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (16 sts)

Row 9: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 14 sts, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (18 sts)

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (18 sts)

Row 11: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 16 sts, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (20 sts)

Rows 12 – 15: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (20 sts)

Row 16: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 18 sts, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (22 sts)

Rows 17 – 22: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (22 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Upper – Right Side.

Upper Size 9/10 – Right Side

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 5 sts. Before turning, skip each of the next 10 sts and place a SM in the 11th stitch to mark where to join yarn later for the Upper – Left Side. Turn. (6 sts)

Rows 2 – 12: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (6 sts)

Fasten Off. Continue on to the Upper – Left Side.

Upper Size 9/10 – Left Side

Row 1: With MC yarn & a 5.50 mm crochet hook, join yarn with a standing sc in the st marked with a SM, sc in each of the next 5 sts. Turn. (6 sts)

Rows 2 – 13: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (6 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn. With a yarn needle and the tail of yarn you left, line up the last rows of the Upper Left & Right Sides and whipstitch them together. Weave in ends. Continue on to Join Sole & Upper.

Join Sole & Upper

Step 1: Lay the upper on top of the sole. Line up the center toe of the upper with the sole and use a locking stitch marker to hold the pieces together. Line up the center of each heel and use a locking stitch marker to hold them together.

Step 2: Place a few other locking stitch markers around the perimeter to hold the pieces in place while you seam them.

Step 3: With MC yarn & a 5.50 mm crochet hook, join yarn with a standing sc in the back center of the heel (make sure to work through both layers of the sole & upper), sc evenly around the perimeter of the sole. Join yarn with a sl st to the 1st st. Stitch count is not crucial. Work as many sc around as needed to join the sole & upper.

Weave in ends. Continue on to the Ankle.

Ankle Size 9/10

Rnd 1: With MC yarn & a 5.50 mm crochet hook, join yarn with a standing sc in the st nearest the center back of the heel, sc in each st and side of each row around. Join with a sl st to the 1st st. (35 sts)

Rnds 2 – 12: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (35 sts)

Fasten Off. Weave in ends. Continue on to the Mock Smock Slipper Cuff below.


Slipper Boot Size 11/12

Finished Size: Length: 11-1/4″ & Width: 4-1/2″

Yarn: Chunky / 5 / 190 yards

Gauge: 3 sc = 1″; 2.75 rows = 1″

Slipper Sole Size 11/12 – Make 2

Row 1: With MC yarn & a 5.50mm crochet hook, ch 3 (ch-2 counts as 1st dc), work 8 dc into the 3rd ch from your hook. Do not join. Turn. (9 sts)

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as a st), dc in the next st (not the same st as ch 2)(2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 ststwice, 2 dc in last st (last st is the top of ch 2 from beginning of Row 1). Turn. (12 sts)

Row 3: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), 2 dc in the first st, (dc in next st, 2 dc in next st5 times, 2 dc in last st (last st is the top of ch 2 from beginning of Row 2). Turn. (19 sts)

Row 4: Ch 1, rotate to work across the flat edge of the sole, work 2 sc in the side of each dc row. Turn. (12 sts)

Rows 5 – 12: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (12 sts)

Row 13: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 8 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (10 sts)

Rows 14 – 28: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (10 sts)

Row 29: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (8 sts)

Row 30: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog. (6 sts)

Note: If you have wide feet, you may get a better fit by working 1 sc in each stitch around your sole before continuing.

Fasten Off. Weave in ends.

Upper Size 11/12 – Make 2

Row 1: With MC yarn & a 5.50mm crochet hook, ch 6, working into the back hump of the ch, sc in the 2nd ch from your hook and in each ch across. Turn. (5 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, work 2 sc in each st across. Turn. (10 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 8 sts, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (12 sts)

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (12 sts)

Row 5: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 10 sts, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (14 sts)

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (14 sts)

Row 7: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 12 sts, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (16 sts)

Row 8: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (16 sts)

Row 9: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 14 sts, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (18 sts)

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (18 sts)

Row 11: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 16 sts, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (20 sts)

Rows 12 – 15: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (20 sts)

Row 16: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 18 sts, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (22 sts)

Row 17: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 20 sts, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (24 sts)

Rows 18 – 24: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (24 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Upper – Right Side.

Upper Size 11/12 – Right Side

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 6 sts. Before turning, skip each of the next 10 sts and place a SM in the 11th stitch to mark where to join yarn later for the Upper – Left Side. Turn. (7 sts)

Rows 2 – 12: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (7 sts)

Fasten Off. Continue on to the Upper – Left Side.

Upper Size 11/12 – Left Side

Row 1: With MC yarn & a 5.50mm crochet hook, join yarn with a standing sc in the st marked with a SM, sc in each of the next 6 sts. Turn. (7 sts)

Rows 2 – 13: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (67sts)

Fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn. With a yarn needle and the tail of yarn you left, line up the last rows of the Upper Left & Right Sides and whipstitch them together. Weave in ends. Continue on to Join Sole & Upper.

Join Sole & Upper

Step 1: Lay the upper on top of the sole. Line up the center toe of the upper with the sole and use a locking stitch marker to hold the pieces together. Line up the center of each heel and use a locking stitch marker to hold them together.

Step 2: Place a few other locking stitch markers around the perimeter to hold the pieces in place while you seam them.

Step 3: With MC yarn & a 5.50mm crochet hook, join yarn with a standing sc in the back center of the heel (make sure to work through both layers of the sole & upper), sc evenly around the perimeter of the sole. Join yarn with a sl st to the 1st st. Stitch count is not crucial. Work as many sc around as needed to join the sole & upper.

Weave in ends. Continue on to the Ankle.

Ankle Size 11/12

Rnd 1: With MC yarn & a 5.50mm crochet hook, join yarn with a standing sc in the st nearest the center back of the heel, sc in each st and side of each row around. Join with a sl st to the 1st st. (35 sts)

Rnds 2 – 12: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (35 sts)

Fasten Off. Weave in ends. Continue on to the Mock Smock Slipper Cuff below.


Progression Photos of Sole, Upper, & Ankle

The following photos show construction progression for all sizes.

Tutorial for sole and foot of slipper boots.
  • Photo A: Shows a completed sole.
  • Photo B: Shows a completed upper (with right and left sides).
  • Photo C: Shows the whip stitching of the back of the heel of the upper.
Tutorial for joining soles of crochet slipper boots.
  • Photo D: Shows the upper after you’ve whip stitched the heel together.
  • Photo E: Shows the center of the toe being lined up and held together with a locking stitch marker for joining the sole and the upper.
  • Photo F: Shows join with a standing sc (working thru both layers of the Upper and the Sole) in the back center of the heel.
Crochet sole joined to the foot of a slipper boot.
  • Photo G: Shows sc around sole and upper of slipper boot.
  • Photo H: Shows your sole attached to the upper.
Crochet slipper boot tutorial for cuff attachment.
The above photos show the progression of the ankle.

Mock Smock Slipper Cuff – All Sizes

The mock smock slipper cuff is worked flat and the first and last rows seamed.

Gauge: 22 sts = 4.75″; 16 rows = 3″

Row 1 (RS): With CC yarn & a 4.00mm crochet hook, ch 23, working into the back of your foundation ch, sc into the 2nd ch from your hook, hdc in the next ch, dc in the next ch, hdc in the next ch, sc in the next ch, sl st in the next ch, (sc in the next ch, hdc in the next ch, dc in the next ch, hdc in the next ch, sc in the next ch, sl st in the next ch) 2 times, sl st in each of the last 4 chs. Turn. (22 sts) Width of Row 1 should be approximately 4.75″.

Row 1 of a crochet slipper cuff completed with a purple crochet hook.
Row 1 complete (cuff RS). 


Row 2: Ch 1, BLO st st in each st across. Turn. (22 sts)

Row 2 of a slipper cuff in a knit-look crochet stitch pattern.
Row 2 complete (cuff WS). 
The beginning of row 3 of a slipper cuff in a knit-look crochet stitch pattern.
Row 2 complete & turned to begin Row 3.

Row 3: Ch 1, BLO hdc in the next st, BLO sc in the next st, BLO sl st in the next st, (BLO sc in the next st, BLO hdc in the next st, dc in the next foundation ch from Row 1, BLO hdc in the next st, BLO sc in the next st, BLO sl st in the next st) 3 times, then BLO sl st in the last st. Turn. (22 sts)

A close-up photo and pink arrow showing stitch placement of a long double crochet stitch.
Row 3: Pink arrow is showing where to work the dc in the foundation chain.
A long double crochet worked two rows down in a knit-look crochet stitch pattern.
Row 3: Shows the first part of the dc worked into the foundation chain.
A long double crochet completed in the mock smock crochet stitch pattern.
Row 3: Shows the dc worked into the foundation chain.
Row 3 of three of a crochet slipper cuff complete.
Row 3 complete. 


Row 4: Rep Row 2.

Row 4 of a knit look crochet stitch pattern complete.
Row 4 complete & turned to begin Row 5.

Row 5: Ch 1, (BLO sc in the next st, BLO hdc in the next st, dc in the next dc from Row 1, BLO hdc in the next st, BLO sc in the next st, BLO sl st in the next st) 3 times, then BLO sl st in each of the last 4 sts. Turn. (22 sts)

Close-up photo showing where to work the first long double crochet in row 5.
Row 5: Shows the first part of the dc worked into the top of the dc from Row 1.
The first long double crochet in row 5 is complete.
Row 5: Shows the dc worked into the top of the dc from Row 1.
Row 5 of the crochet slipper boot cuff complete.
Row 5 complete.


Row 6: Rep Row 2.

Row 6 of the crochet slipper boot cuff complete.
Row 6 complete & turned to begin Row 7. 

Row 7: Ch 1, BLO hdc in the next st, BLO sc in the next st, BLO sl st in the next st, (BLO sc in the next st, BLO hdc in the next st, dc in the next dc 4 rows below, BLO hdc in the next st, BLO sc in the next st, BLO sl st in the next st) 3 times, then BLO sl st in the last st. Turn. (22 sts)

A close-up of row 7 and the placement of the first double crochet stitch.
Row 7: Shows the first part of the dc worked into the dc 4 rows below.
The first long double crochet worked in row 7 of the mock smock crochet stitch pattern.
Row 7: Shows the dc worked into the dc 4 rows below.
Row 7 of the slipper cuff completed.
Row 7 complete. 


Row 8: Rep Row 2.

Row 8 of the crochet slipper boot cuff complete and turned to begin row 9.
Row 8 complete & turned to begin Row 9.

Row 9: Ch 1, (BLO sc in the next st, BLO hdc in the next st, dc in the next dc 4 rows below, BLO hdc in the next st, BLO sc in the next st, BLO sl st in the next st) 3 times, then BLO sl st in each of the last 4 sts. Turn. (22 sts)

The first dc of row 9 worked into a dc four rows down.
Row 9: Shows the first part of the dc worked into the dc 4 rows below.
The mock smock knit-look crochet pattern is starting to emerge.
Row 9: Shows the dc worked into the dc 4 rows below.
Nine rows of the crochet slipper boot cuff complete.
Row 9 complete.


Row 10: Rep Row 2.

This view shows the back side of the slipper cuff after ten rows.
Row 10 complete (WS of the cuff). 
This photo shows the right side of the slipper cuff after row ten is complete.
Row 10 complete & turned to begin Row 11.

Rows 11 – 68: Rep Rows 7 – 10.

Fasten off leaving a length of yarn 3 times the width of the cuff seam. Continue on to the Nearly Visible Seam.

Finished Cuff Size Before Seaming: 4.75″ W x 12.5″ L

The knit-look crochet slipper cuff is complete and ready to be seamed.
This photo shows the cuff complete, before being seamed.
The right vertical edge of the cuff in this photo is the edge you will whipstitch to the ankle opening once it’s seamed.

Nearly Visible Seam

The cuff is folded and both short ends touching so the yarn needle and tail of yarn can seam the ends.
Position Cuff: With the RS facing out, bring the first row up to meet the last row. Make sure the last row is closest to you.
A close-up showing which loops the yarn needle is inserted through to seam the slipper cuff.
Seam: Using a yarn needle and the tail of yarn left when you fastened off, whipstitch the BOTH LOOPS of the first row to the BLO of the last row.
Use a yarn needle to whipstitch both loops of the first row to the back loops only of the last row.
Continue to whipstitch across the short edges of the cuff.
A nearly invisible seam complete on the slipper cuff.
Pull on your yarn to tighten the seam. Weave in the ends. Continue on to the Finishing Stitches.

Finishing Stitches

The finishing stitches you’ll be adding are to tie together the first and last rows of the cuff. They are decorative stitches that mimic the double crochet stitches you worked 4 rows down throughout the slipper cuff. These stitches are made using only a yarn needle and piece of yarn that you will use to connect two rows of stitches.

Close-up of a yarn needle showing where to work the first finishing stitch on the slipper cuff seam.
Photo A: With a yarn needle and a piece of yarn that is at least twice the length of the cuff, working from inside your cuff, bring the needle up thru the top of a dc from the second to last row of your cuff (this is Row 67, if you worked a total of 68 rows for your cuff). See yarn needle.
A yarn needle close-up to show where to connect the finishing stitch.
Photo B: Insert the needle (from outside to inside) straight up just above the next row of slip stitches. See yarn needle.
A yarn needle looping through the same stitches again to complete the first finishing stitch.
Photo C: Repeat Photo A & Photo B in the same spot. Work each finishing stitch twice around the same spot.
Insert the yarn needle through the same stitch to complete the first finishing stitch.
This photo shows the second pass around the same stitch.
A pink arrow showing one completed finishing stitch and a blue arrow showing where to work the second finishing stitch.
Photo D: Shows one finishing stitch complete (pink arrow). Working on the inside of your cuff, weave the yarn thru the stitches across to the next double crochet in the second to last row (blue arrow).
Three blue arrows pointing to three complete finishing stitches.
Photo E: Repeat Photos A – C to tie together each dc from the second to last row of the cuff to the dc above it.
The blue arrows in the photo above are pointing to the first set of completed finishing stitches. Weave in ends.

Continue on to complete the second set of finishing stitches.

Second Set of Finishing Stitches

The second set of finishing stitches is worked in the top of the dc’s from Row 65 & the bottom of Row 1 dc’s.

A yarn needle showing where to begin the second set of finishing stitches.
Photo F: With a yarn needle and a piece of yarn that is at least twice the length of the cuff, working from inside your cuff, bring the needle up thru the top of a dc worked in Row 65. See yarn needle.
A photo showing where to insert your needle to complete the first part of the finishing stitch.
Photo G: Insert the needle (from outside to inside) straight up and into the foundation ch that the dc from Row 1 is worked into. See yarn needle.
The pink arrow shows one finishing stitch complete and the blue arrow shows where to work the next one.
Photo H: Repeat Photo F & Photo G in the same spot. Each finishing stitch is worked twice around the same spot. The photo shows one finishing stitch complete (pink arrow). Working on the inside of your cuff, weave the yarn thru the stitches across to the next double crochet in Row 65 (blue arrow).
The pink arrows are pointing to the first set of finishing stitches and the blue arrows are pointing to the second set of finishing stitches.
Photo I: Repeat Photos F – H to tie together each dc from Row 65 to the foundation chain above it that has a dc worked into it from Row 1.
Pink Arrows are pointing to the first set of finishing stitches. The blue arrows are pointing to the second set of finishing stitches.

Note: The vertical edge on the right in the photo above is the edge that you will whipstitch to the top of the ankle opening.

Weave in ends. Continue on to Attaching the Cuff to the Ankle.

Attaching the Cuff to the Ankle of the Slipper Boot

Step 1: Slip the finished cuff over the ankle of the slipper boot. Position it so that the seam in the cuff is at the back side of the ankle of the slipper boot. See the photo above to see which edge of the cuff is the top edge.

The seamed slipper cuff is slipped over the ankle of the boot.
This photo shows the cuff slipped over the ankle of a slipper boot.

Step 2: With tail of yarn and a yarn needle, whipstitch the top edge of the cuff to the top edge of the ankle. I only whipstitched the slip stitch rows of the cuff to the stitches around the ankle opening. I did not whipstitch into any of the sc or hdc rows of the cuff. Stitch counts vary between the two openings, just position the stitches evenly around.

I only whipstitched the slip stitch rows of the cuff to the stitches around the ankle opening.
A top down view of the slipper cuff seamed to the top of the crochet bootie.
One slipper boot is complete. Repeat all steps to complete the second slipper boot.
A close-up of the top of crochet booties with knit-look crochet cuffs that resemble knit smocking.
Once both crochet slipper boots are complete, they’re ready to keep your toes toasty warm.
Model wearing slipper boots and leggings laying on a bed with an orange blanket.
Add a little puff paint to the soles then slip ’em on and keep your feet warm and cozy!

I MADE IT! NOW WHAT?

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Happy Crocheting, Jennifer.

More Cozy Crochet Patterns

Are you looking for more cozy crochet patterns for fall and winter? We have several more patterns for crochet sweatersmittensbeanies, and blankets.

We also have a few premium crochet slipper patterns as well.

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