Easy Crochet Cardigan with Pockets
Learn to crochet an easy crochet cardigan with pockets that is perfect for layering all year round!
The Fireside crochet cardigan sweater pattern is a seasonless essential with a slightly oversized fit, tapered sleeves, and inset pockets. This is a beginner-friendly, one-piece crochet cardigan pattern that’s perfect to use as a transitional cardigan for each of the seasons.
You’ll find the crochet cardigan pattern free below, or an ad-free print friendly PDF (including all photo tutorials + BONUS garment schematic) on Ravelry, or on Etsy (aff).
The Fireside Easy Crochet Cardigan is a slightly oversized crochet cardigan with tapered sleeves, a wide bottom ribbing and collar, and inset pockets. It’s size inclusive from XS – 5XL and the length can be easily adjusted, if you prefer a long cardigan, or a shorter one.
It’s the perfect crochet cardigan for cool spring and falls days and its relaxed fit allows you to pile on the layers underneath!
Pair it with jeans or leggings for a more casual look. And if you need something a little dressier to wear over a dress, this long cardigan will be perfect for that too.
This easy crochet cardigan is perfect for advanced beginners. It can be easily lengthened or shortened and made with or without inset pockets. Make the pockets as deep as you’d like.
Make sure to order an extra ball of yarn or two, if you prefer a longer cardigan.
How to Crochet a Cardigan Sweater
If you’re searching for crochet patterns for cardigan sweaters, long crochet cardigans, an easy crochet cardigan with pockets, plus size crochet sweaters, or a one piece cardigan crochet pattern, this cardigan crochet pattern checks all the boxes.
This cardigan sweater is worked from the bottom up.
You’ll begin by crocheting the wide ribbed bottom hem, then rotate to work the body of cardigan onto the long edge of the ribbed edge.
The body of cardigan is worked by alternating rows of extended single crochet stitches and extended half double crochet stitches. There are two options, “No Pockets” or “Pockets”. If adding pockets to your cardigan, you’ll chain to create holes for them while working the body. Then, you’ll continue with the body of cardigan until you reach the bottom of the armhole opening.
This is where you can adjust the length of your cardigan, if you prefer a long cardigan or cropped cardi.
After you reach the bottom of the armholes, you’ll then split this into three panels and crochet the upper right panel, then back panel, then upper left panel. Each of these panels has simple shoulder shaping which is to give the cardigan a nicer fit.
After the body of cardigan is complete, you will then seam the shoulders with a whipstitch.
Next, you’ll crochet the sleeves right onto the armhole openings in joined and turned rows. After your sleeve is to length, you’ll then add a fold-up stretchy ribbed sleeve cuff.
Then, you’ll crochet the wide ribbed front edge right onto the front cardigan opening. Belt instructions are included, if desired.
Lastly, you’ll crochet two pocket pouches for the inset pockets and attach them to the pock openings. You can make your pockets as deep as you’d like. Finish off the pockets with a decorative ribbing along the top edge.
And there you have it! That’s how you crochet an easy crochet cardigan with pockets!
Choosing Which Size to Crochet
To choose your size, look over the size chart below.
- ‘Fits Bust’ measurement is the measurement of the intended wearer, not the cardigan’s finished measurement.
- Finished Bust, Sleeve Length and Cardigan Length are measurements of the finished easy crochet cardigan.
- Cardigan length is measured from the nape of the neck down (not including the wide ribbed collar).
- This crochet cardigan has 6-8″ of positive ease built in for an oversized fit.
- If you prefer a more classic fitting cardigan, I would suggest making a size smaller than your actual bust size, (as long as your actual bust size is within the range of the smaller size’s finished bust).
- Adjusting Cardigan Length: If you’d prefer a longer cardigan than the measurement listed in the table below, simply work more rows in multiples of 2 before working the upper panels. See the note within the written instructions that tells you where you can add length. *If you choose to add more length, you will need more yarn than what is listed in the chart above.
- Adjusting Sleeve Length: Sleeve length is measured from the garment’s underarm to the wrist. You can easily add length to your sleeve. See the notes in the pattern in the sleeve section after Rounds 30-33.
Size & Yardage Chart
The notes above refer to this size chart.
Yarn
This women’s crochet cardigan was designed using Lion Brand Wool Ease Yarn. I chose the colorway Natural Heather because its a gorgeous neutral that goes with just about everything.
Lion Brand Wool Ease is my favorite worsted weight yarn for garments. It’s available in 31 gorgeous colors. Natural heather is one of my favorite neutrals as it’s a heathered cream color.
I also love that Wool Ease is machine washable and dryable!
Yarn Substitutions
Other worsted weight yarns can be substituted as long as you’re able to meet gauge and you’re happy with the drape of the crochet fabric.
I personally recommend a worsted weight yarn that is a wool blend for a winter crochet sweater. However, if you’re making this sweater to wear during the summer months, it I would choose a cotton or cotton / bamboo blend.
Fireside Crochet Cardigan – Free Crochet Cardigan Pattern
The modern crochet cardigan pattern is below, but if you love to work offline, I’ve got a couple other great options for you.
Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF, including all photo tutorials + BONUS crochet garment schematic, on Ravelry, or on Etsy (aff).
Purchase this crochet granny sweater kit! (aff): Lion Brand has a full kit of the Fireside Crochet Cardigan, available on their website. The crochet cardigan kit includes your choice of colors and a digital copy of the crochet pattern.
This post contains affiliate links.
Materials
- Yarn: Worsted Weight / 4 / Yarn, Lion Brand Wool Ease Yarn in Natural Heather was used for the sample in the photos, (3 oz / 85 g / 197 yards / 180 m / 80% acrylic / 20% wool).
- Natural Heather: #620-098
- Yardage: See Size Chart Above
- Crochet Hooks: J/10/6.00mm; G/6/4.00mm, or size needed to obtain gauge (My favorite crochet hooks are the Clover Amour Crochet Hooks, I’ve never had an ache in my hand since switching).
- Locking Stitch Markers
- Scissors
- Yarn Needle
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch(s): chain(s)
- sl st(s): slip stitch(es)
- st(s): stitch(es)
- yo: yarn over
- sc: single crochet
- hdc: half double crochet
- ext sc: extended single crochet
- ext hdc: extended half double crochet
- extsc2tog: extended single crochet decrease
- hdc2tog: half double crochet decrease
- Alt-dc: alternate double crochet
- SM: stitch marker
- Rep: repeat
- Rnd: round
- RS: Right Side
- WS: Wrong Side
- BLO: back loop only
Experience Level
- Easy
Gauge
- See individual sections for gauge.
Sizes
- Women’s XS through 5XL
- See size chart above.
Special Stitches
- Extended Single Crochet (ext sc): Insert hook into stitch indicated, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 1 loop on hook, yo, pull thru remaining two loops on hook.
- Extended Single Crochet Decrease (extsc2tog): Insert hook into stitch indicated, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 1 loop on hook, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 1 loop on hook, yo, pull thru remaining loops on hook.
- Extended Half Double Crochet (ext hdc): Yo, insert hook into stitch indicated, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 1 loop on hook, yo, pull thru remaining loops on hook.
- Half Double Crochet Decrease (hdc2tog): (Yo, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull up a loop) twice, yo, pull through all loops on your hook.
- Alternate Double Crochet (alt-dc): After turning your work, do not ch, instead, insert your hook into the first st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru both loops, insert your hook between the legs of the st just made, (yo, pull up a loop) twice, yo, pull thru remaining loops.
Pattern Notes
- I tend to crochet on the tighter side. You may need to go down a hook size (or two) to meet gauge if you crochet on the looser side.
- Turning chains do not count as a stitch and are not included in stitch counts.
- The first stitch of the row is worked in the same stitch as the turning chain, unless otherwise specified.
- Lion Brand Yarns Wool Ease was used for the sample. Another comparable worsted weight yarn may be used as long as gauge is met.
- Lion Brand Yarns Wool Ease: 80% Acrylic / 20% Wool (197 yds / 180 m / 85 g / 3 oz)
- Yardage & Color
- Natural Heather: #620-098
- See Size & Yardage Chart Above for yarn amounts.
- Pattern instructions, changes for sizes are written as follows: XS (S/M, L/XL, 2X/3X, 4X/5X)
- Stitch counts, changes for sizes are written as follows at the end of each row: (XS, S/M, L/XL, 2X/3X, 4X/5X)
- Cardigan Construction Notes: This cardigan is worked from the bottom hem up to the shoulders. First, you’ll crochet the wide ribbed bottom edge, then crochet the body onto the long edge of this ribbed edging. Once you reach the bottom of the armholes, you’ll split this into three panels and crochet the upper right panel, then back panel, then upper left panel. You’ll then seam the shoulders. Next, crochet the sleeves right onto the armhole openings and add a fold-up ribbed sleeve cuff. Then, you’ll crochet the wide ribbed front edge right onto the front cardigan opening. Belt instructions are included, if desired. Lastly, crochet pouches for your pockets and attach them to the pocket openings. Then add a small ribbing across the top edge of each pocket opening.
- Model wears a women’s medium and is wearing a small/medium sample.
Fireside Crochet Cardigan Sweater Pattern
CHANGES FOR SIZES AS FOLLOWS: XS (S/M, L/XL, 2X/3X, 4X/5X)
Wide Bottom Band
Gauge: Using a 6.00mm crochet hook, in pattern stitch as written below: 15 sts = 4″; 10 Rows = 3″
Row 1 (RS): With yarn & a 6.00mm crochet hook, ch 19, hdc in the 2nd ch from your hook and in each ch across. Turn. (18 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each st across. Turn. (18 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, BLO hdc in each st across. Turn. (18 sts)
Rows (4 – 109) (4 – 133) (4 – 157) (4 – 193) (4 – 223): Rep Rows 2 & 3, ending with a Row 3 rep. (18sts)
Do not fasten off. Wide Bottom Band should measure approximately 5″ W x 32.25″ (40 “, 47.75″, 57″, 64.75”) L. Continue on to the Body of Cardigan.
The photo above shows a close-up of the wide bottom band. I had my cardigan folded on my lap.
Body of Cardigan
Gauge: In pattern stitch: 13 sts = 4″; 9 rows = 4″ (5 rows ext hdc & 4 rows ext sc)
Row 1 (RS): Rotate your wide bottom band so that you can work into the sides of the rows, making sure to work on the RS of the band, work 1 sc into the side of each row across. Turn. (109, 133, 157, 193, 223 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, ext sc in each st across. Turn. (109, 133, 157, 193, 223 sts)
Row 3: Skip the first st, alt-dc in the 2nd st, ext hdc in each st across to the last st, 2 ext hdc in the last st. Turn. (109, 133, 157, 193, 223 sts)
Continue below to the pocket option you’ve chosen.
If you’re making a cardigan without pockets, continue to the No Pocket Option to complete the Body of Cardigan.
If you’re making a cardigan with pockets, continue to the Pocket Option to complete the Body of Cardigan.
No Pocket Option
Rep Rows 2 & 3 until your cardigan measures approximately 21″ (21 “, 20″, 20″, 19”), including the wide bottom band, ending with a Row 2 repeat. See Note Below about adding length. Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Upper Right Panel.
I was unable to find the flat lay photos I had taken of this cardigan in stages. This is the only photo I was able to find on my old phone, before I added the pocket pouches. You can see the opening created for the pockets.
Pocket Option
Rep Rows 2 & 3 until your cardigan measures approximately 8″ (9 “, 9″, 10″, 10”), ending with a Row 3 Rep, from the bottom of the wide bottom band. Next, work Pocket Rows 1 & 2.
Pocket Row 1: Ch 1, ext sc in the first st, ext sc in each of the next 6 sts, ch 18, skip each of the next 18 sts, ext sc in each st across to the last 26 sts, ch 18, skip each of the next 18 sts, ext sc in each of the remaining 8 sts. Turn. (109, 133, 157, 193, 223 sts)
Pocket Row 2: Skip the first st, alt-dc in the 2nd st, ext hdc in each st & ch across to the last st, 2 ext hdc in the last st. Turn. (109, 133, 157, 193, 223 sts)
Rep Rows 2 & 3 from Body of Cardigan until your cardigan measures approximately 21″ (21″, 20″, 20″, 19″), including the wide bottom band, ending with a Row 2 repeat. See Note Below about adding length. Do not fasten off. Continue on to Upper Right Panel.
Adding Length: If you would prefer a longer cardigan, this is where you will add the extra length. Simply continue to rep rows 2 & 3 until you’ve added the additional length you desire. Make sure to end with a Row 2 rep.
Keep in mind that the Upper Panels will add another 6″ (7 “, 8″, 9″, 10”) to the length of your cardigan. Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Upper Right Panel.
Upper Right Panel
Row 1 (RS): Alt-dc in the first st, ext hdc in each of the next 21 (27, 33, 42, 48) sts. Before turning to work Row 2, place stitch markers in the following stitches noted below. After you’ve placed your stitch markers, Turn to work Row 2. (22, 28, 34, 43, 49 sts)
Place Stitch Markers
- Place a stitch marker in the next stitch to mark the beginning of the Upper Back Panel.
- Skip each of the next 64 (76, 88, 106, 124) sts, place a stitch marker in the next stitch to mark the beginning of the Upper Left Panel.
Row 2: Ch 1, ext sc in each st across. Turn. (22, 28, 34, 43, 49 sts)
Row 3: Skip the first st, alt-dc in the 2nd st, ext hdc in each st across to the last st, 2 ext hdc in the last st. Turn. (22, 28, 34, 43, 49 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, ext sc in each st across. Turn. (22, 28, 34, 43, 49 sts)
Rows 5 – 14 (16, 18, 20, 22): Rep Rows 3 – 4.
Do not fasten off. Continue on to Shoulder Shaping – Upper Right Panel.
Shoulder Shaping – Upper Right Panel
Row 1 (RS): Alt-dc in the 1st st, ext hdc in each of the next 11 (17, 23, 32, 38) sts, hdc in the next st, sc in the next st, skip each of the last 8 sts. Turn. (14, 20, 26, 35, 41 sts)
Row 2: Sl st in the 1st st, sc in each of the next 2 sts, ext sc in each of the next 11 (17, 23, 32, 38) sts. (14, 20, 26, 35, 41 sts) Includes first sl st. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Continue on to the Back Panel.
Back Panel
Row 1 (RS): With a 6.00mm crochet hook, join yarn with a sl st in st marked for back panel, alt-dc in the same st, ext hdc in each of the next 64 (76, 88, 106, 124) sts. Turn. (65, 77, 89, 107, 125 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, ext sc in each st across. Turn. (65, 77, 89, 107, 125 sts)
Row 3: Skip the first st, alt-dc in the 2nd st, ext hdc in each st across to the last st, 2 ext hdc in the last st. Turn. (65, 77, 89, 107, 125 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, ext sc in each st across. Turn. (65, 77, 89, 107, 125 sts)
Rows 5 – 14 (16, 18, 20, 22): Rep Rows 3 – 4.
Do not fasten off. Continue on to Shoulder Shaping – Back Panel.
Shoulder Shaping – Back Panel
Row 1 (RS): Sl st in each of the next 8 sts (do not count as sts), ch 1, sc in the next st, hdc in the next st, ext hdc in each st across to the last 10 sts, hdc in the next st, sc in the next st, skip each of the last 8 sts. Turn. (49, 61, 73, 91, 109 sts)
Row 2: Sl st in the first st (count as a st), sc in each of the next 2 sts, ext sc in each st across to the last 3 sts, sc in each of the next 2 sts, sl st in the last st (count as a st). (49, 61, 73, 91, 109 sts)
Fasten off. Weave in ends. Continue on to the Upper Left Panel.
Upper Left Panel
Row 1 (RS): With yarn & a 6.00mm crochet hook, join yarn with a sl st in st marked for upper left panel, alt-dc in the same st, ext hdc in each remaining st. Turn. (22, 28, 34, 43, 49 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, ext sc in each st across. Turn. (22, 28, 34, 43, 49 sts)
Row 3: Skip the first st, alt-dc in the 2nd st, ext hdc in each st across to the last st, 2 ext hdc in the last st. Turn. (22, 28, 34, 43, 49 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, ext sc in each st across. Turn. (22, 28, 34, 43, 49 sts)
Rows 5 – 14 (16, 18, 20, 22): Rep Rows 3 – 4.
Do not fasten off. Continue on to Shoulder Shaping – Upper Left Panel.
Shoulder Shaping – Upper Left Panel
Row 1 (RS): Sl st in each of the next 8 sts (do not count as sts), ch 1, sc in the next st, hdc in the next st, ext hdc in each of the next 12 (18, 24, 33, 39) sts. Turn. (14, 20, 26, 35, 41 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, ext sc in each of the next 11 (17, 23, 32, 38) sts, sc in each of the next 2 sts, sl st in the next st. (14, 20, 26, 35, 41 sts) Includes last sl st.
Fasten off. Weave in ends. Continue on to the Shoulder Seams.
Shoulder Seams
With the RS together, line up the outer corners of the back panel with the outer corners of the front panels (these are the corners that connect to create the armhole opening). Using a yarn needle and yarn, whipstitch 22 (28, 34, 43, 49) sts of each front panel to the corresponding stitches of the back panel.
Weave in ends. Continue on to the Sleeves.
Sleeves
Rnd 1 (RS): Using a 6.00mm crochet hook, join yarn with a sl st at the bottom of the armhole opening, work 2 sc into the side of each alt-dc & ext hdc row, work 1 sc into the side of each ext sc row. Join with a sl st to the 1st st. (42, 48, 54, 60, 66 sts)
Rnd 2 (RS): Alt-dc in the first st, ext hdc in each remaining st around. Join. Turn. (42, 48, 54, 60, 66 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, ext sc in each st around to the last 4 sts, (extsc2tog) twice. Join. Turn. (40, 46, 52, 58, 64 sts)
Rnds 4 – 11: Rep Rnds 2 – 3. (32, 38, 44, 50, 56 sts) at the end of Rnd 11.
Rnd 12: Alt-dc in the first st, ext hdc in each remaining st around. Join. Turn. (32, 38, 44, 50, 56 sts)
Rnd 13: Ch 1, ext sc in each st around. Join. Turn. (32, 38, 44, 50, 56 sts)
Rnds 14 – 17: Rep Rnds 12 – 13. (32, 38, 44, 50, 56 sts)
Rnds 18 – 21: Rep Rnds 2 – 3. (28, 34, 40, 46, 52 sts) at the end of Rnd 21.
Rnds 22 – 26: Rep Rnds 12 – 13, ending with a Rnd 12 Rep. (28, 34, 40, 46, 52 sts)
Rnd 27: Rep Rnd 3. (26, 32, 38, 44, 50 sts)
Rnds 28 – 29: Rep Rnds 2 – 3. (24, 30, 36, 42, 48 sts) at the end of Rnd 29.
Rnds 30 – 33: Rep Rnds 12 – 13. (24, 30, 36, 42, 48 sts) If you need to add length to your sleeves, do so here by repeating Rnds 12 – 13. Keep in mind that the folded cuff will add another 4″ to the length of your sleeve.
Rnd 34: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. Turn. (24, 30, 36, 42, 48 sts)
Do not fasten off. Continue on to Folded Sleeve Cuff.
Folded Sleeve Cuff
Gauge: 12 sts = 3″; 10 rows = 2.75″
Note: Make sure you’ve turned at the end of the last sleeve round so that you begin Row 1 of the folded cuff, on the wrong side of the sleeve. The right side of the cuff is worked on the inside of the sleeve so that when it’s folded over, it is right side out.
Row 1: With a 6.00mm crochet hook, ch 31, working into the back hump of the foundation chain, sc in the 2nd ch from your hook, sc in each of the next 28 chs, sc2tog in the last ch and first st along the edge of the sleeve. (30 sts)
Row 2: Sl st in the next st along the edge of the sleeve, turn, BLO sl st in each st across. (30 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, BLO, sc in each of the next 29 sts, sc2tog in the next st and the next st along the edge of the sleeve. (30 sts)
Rows 4 – 23 (29, 35, 41, 47): Repeat Rows 2 – 3. (30 sts)
The photo above shows Row 5 of the Folded Sleeve Cuff in process.
This photo shows the folded sleeve cuff complete, before seaming.
Position your sleeve cuff as shown. Make sure the working yarn is inside the cuff before seaming.
Row 24 (30, 36, 42, 48): Sl st in the next st along the edge of the sleeve, turn, line up last row with Row 1, holding working yarn on the inside of the cuff, sl st FLO of 1st row to BLO of last row across. (30 sts)
The photo above shows what your seam should look like after completing a few slip stitches of the seam.
Fasten off. Weave in ends. Repeat Sleeve and Cuff for opposite sleeve then continue on to the Front Edge Opening.
Front Edge Opening
Row 1 (RS): Using a 6.00mm crochet hook, join yarn with a sl st in the cardigan’s lower right corner, ch 1, work 1 sc into each st of the wide bottom band, work 2 sc into the side of each alt-dc & ext hdc row, work 1 sc into the side of each ext sc row, work 1 sc in each st across back neck opening, the work 2 sc into the side of each alt-dc & ext hdc row, work 1 sc into the side of each ext sc row, until you reach the wide bottom band on the left side, then work 1 sc into each st of the wide bottom band.
Fasten off. Weave in ends. Continue on to the Wide Ribbed Front.
Wide Ribbed Front
Gauge: In BLO hdc, with a 6.00mm crochet hook: 14 sts = 3.75″; 8 rows = 3.5″
Width of Wide Front Band is 3.75″
Row 1 (RS): Using a 6.00mm crochet hook, join yarn with a sl st in cardigan’s lower right corner, ch 15, working into the back hump of the ch, hdc in the 2nd ch from your hook, hdc in each of the next 12 chs, hdc2tog in the next ch and same st as ch-15. Turn. (14 sts)
Row 2: (Sl st in the next st along the edge of the cardigan) twice (sl sts do not count as sts), turn, BLO hdc in each st across. (14 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, BLO hdc in each of the next 13 sts, hdc2tog in the next st and next st along the edge of the cardigan. (14 sts)
Rep Rows 2 – 3 around the front opening edge of your cardigan.
Fasten off. Weave in ends. Continue on to the Pocket Pouch, if adding pockets. If not, continue on to Belt, if desired.
Pocket Pouch – Make 2
Rnd 1: With a 6.00mm crochet hook & yarn, make a chain that is the same size as the perimeter of the pocket opening, join with a sl st to the 1st ch to form a circle. Stitch count isn’t crucial.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, working in the back humps of the ch, sc in each ch around. Join.
The photo above shows Row 2 of a pocket pouch.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join.
Rep Rnd 3 until your pocket measures 6″, or desired depth.
This photo shows a pocket pouch complete and one end seamed.
Fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn 4 times the width of the pocket. Using a yarn needle and tail of yarn, lay the pocket flat and whipstitch the edge together to create the bottom of the pocket. Weave in ends. Make the second pocket, then continue on to Attaching the Pockets.
Attaching the Pockets
Step One: Insert a pocket into the pocket opening. Line up the opening in the pocket with the pocket opening on the cardigan. Use a few locking stitch markers to hold it in place while attaching it to the cardigan.
This photo shows a pocket pouch inserted into a pocket opening on the body of the cardigan. I prefer to use several locking stitch markers to hold the pocket pouch in place while sewing it to the pocket opening.
Step Two: With a yarn needle and piece of yarn that is 3 – 4 times the perimeter of the pocket, whipstitch the open edge of the pocket to the pocket opening in the cardigan.
Weave in ends. Repeat for the second pocket. Continue on to Pocket Ribbing. If you choose not to add pocket ribbing, continue on to the Belt, if desired.
This photo shows a pocket pouch sewn into a pocket opening.
Pocket Ribbing – Make 2
The pocket ribbing is for aesthetic purposes only and is optional.
Row 1: With a 4.00mm crochet hook and yarn, ch 6, working in the back hump of the foundation ch, hdc in the 2nd ch from your hook and in each ch across. Turn. (5 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, BLO hdc in each st across. Turn. (5 sts)
Rep Row 2 until your pocket ribbing measures just a tad shorter than the length of the pocket opening. So when stretched a little, it should measure the length of the pocket opening.
Fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn 3 – 4 times the length of the pocket ribbing. Line up the long edge of the pocket ribbing with the pocket opening. Use a yarn needle and tail of yarn and whipstitch the pocket ribbing to the top of the pocket opening. Also secure the short edges of the pocket ribbing.
This photo shows pocket ribbing attached to the cardigan pocket opening.
Belt (optional)
Row 1: With yarn & a 6.00mm crochet hook, ch 7, working into the back hump of the ch, hdc in the 2nd ch from your hook and in each ch across. Turn. (6 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in each st across. Turn. (6 sts) Rep Row 2 until belt measures 68″, or desired length.
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Related: If you have never blocked a crochet project before, check out my post on 3 blocking methods!
Questions Crocheters Frequently Ask About Cardigan Crochet Patterns
If you have any questions that I haven’t answered below, always feel free to reach out to me, (e-mail me: ACrochetedSimplicity at Gmail dot Com), and I’ll do my best to help!
CAN A BEGINNER CROCHETER MAKE A CARDIGAN?
Absolutely! After a crocheter becomes comfortable with reading crochet patterns, basic crochet stitches, and meeting gauge, crocheting a simple cardigan should be on their bucket list. My Aurora Cardigan with pockets is a beginner-friendly crochet cardigan pattern.
If you’ve never crocheted a sweater before, I suggest choosing a slightly oversized cardigan as it will be most forgiving, if your gauge is off a bit.
How Long Does it Take to Crochet a Cardigan?
The answer to this question varies because of several factors. It all depends on your skill level, the weight of yarn used, the crochet stitches used, and how fast you crochet on average.
The Fireside Crochet Cardigan with pockets took me about a week to crochet.
How Much Yarn Do I Need for a Crochet Cardigan?
For this easy crochet cardigan, you’ll need any where from 1,420 – 2,500 yards, depending on which size you’re making. Also, keep in mind that you will need more or less yarn, if you are making your cardigan longer or shorter than the dimensions in the size chart above.
WHAT IS THE BEST CROCHET STITCH FOR A CARDIGAN?
The answer to this question is “it depends”. It depends on which season you’re crocheting a sweater for.
If you’re crocheting a cardigan for summer, you’ll want to use a lacy stitch pattern.
But, if you’re crocheting a sweater for winter, you’ll want to choose a crochet stitch that is more dense and won’t create holes.
My favorite is the extended single crochet stitch. I love it because it’s taller than a regular single crochet stitch, like the half double crochet. But it’s not as thick as the half double crochet stitch so it creates a crochet fabric with a great drape. Extended crochet stitches were the perfect choice for the Fireside Cardigan.
What Length of Cardigan is Most Flattering?
For most people the perfect length cardigan will hit them around their mid hips, or just under their bottom.
A shorter cardigan may make you look square, if it has an oversized fit.
A longer cardigan is nice, but it is less flattering if you are petite/short.
If you have more belly than hips, a cardigan is the perfect item to blur this zone.
I MADE IT! NOW WHAT?
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JOIN US IN THE FACEBOOK COMMUNITY GROUP!
Come share your finished projects with us in the A Crocheted Simplicity Crochet Community Group on Facebook. Join us for fun community events such as crochet alongs, join in on crochet conversations, ask questions, get advice, and share your love for crochet!
MORE CROCHET PATTERNS FOR CARDIGAN SWEATERS I THINK YOU’LL LOVE
MORE CROCHET SWEATER PATTERNS
Are you looking for more crochet sweater patterns? We have several more patterns for crochet clothes, including matching sweaters for mothers and daughters and even for fathers and sons.
