Free Crochet Pattern – Hungry Monster Candy Bag
How much fun would your little one have while walking around trick-or-treating, feeding their own little Hungry Monster Crochet Candy Bag? I know Claire sure can’t wait to use this little guy. She and her older brother have been trying to figure out just how much candy this little guy can eat.
You can find the free crochet candy bag pattern for the Hungry Monster Candy Bag in this post below, or you can purchase an ad-free print friendly version that includes all photos and tutorials, on Love Crafts here, Ravelry here, or on Etsy here.
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YARN
I LOVE to use 100% cotton yarns for bags of all kinds because it’s nice and durable and washes up well. There are several cotton yarns out there that would be perfect for this crochet candy bag, but I chose to use Lily Sugar n’ Cream 100% worsted weight cotton yarn. Lily Sugar n’ Cream is available in 39 colors so I was able to find the perfect colors I needed for this project within the same yarn line.
HUNGRY MONSTER CROCHET CANDY BAG – FREE CROCHET CANDY BAG PATTERN
The free pattern is below, but if you love to work offline, or need to order your yarn, I’ve got a couple other great options for you.
Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF, including all photo tutorials, on Love Crafts here, Ravelry here, or Etsy here.
Save this pattern to your Ravelry favorites here.
Pin it for later here.
This post contains affiliate links.
Materials
- Yarn: Yarn used for the sample shown above is Lily Sugar n’ Cream; 4 / Worsted Weight Cotton Yarn; (100% cotton / 120 yards / 70.9 g / 109 m / 2.5 oz ) (Black: 240 yards) (White: 15 yards) (Orange: 40 yards) (Green: 45 yards) (Purple: 30 yards)
- Crochet Hook: H/8/5.00mm (my favorite hooks are Clover Amour Hooks, I’ve never had an ache in my hand since switching)
- Measuring Tape
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
Many of the materials are available for purchase through our affiliates:
Lily Sugar 'N Cream Super S...Shop on Amazon 
Clover 1047/H Deep Blue Amo...Shop on Amazon 
Fiskars All Purpose Scissor...Shop on Amazon 
Lion Brand Yarn 400-5-5002 ...Shop on Amazon
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch(s): chain
- st(s): stitch(es)
- sl st(s): slip stitch(es)
- sc: single crochet
- hdc: half double crochet
- yo: yarn over
- SM: stitch marker
- FLO: front loop only
- BLO: back loop only
- RS: right side
- WS: wrong side
- Rep: repeat
- Join w/ a sc: Click here for photo tutorial
- Invisible Join Technique: Click here for photo tutorial
- Surface Crochet: Click here for photo tutorial
Gauge
- In sc: 7.25 sts x 7.75 rows = 2″
Skill Level
- Easy
Finished Size
- Top to Bottom (without handle): 7.5″ to 11″ W x 13.5″ H
Notes
- Beginning chains are not counted as a stitch or included in stitch count.
- The first stitch of each row is worked into the same stitch as the turning chain, unless stated otherwise.
- I tend to crochet on the tighter side. You may find yourself needing to go down a hook size (or two) to properly meet gauge, but gauge isn’t critical for this project.
- Use the invisible join technique (Click HERE for tutorial) when fastening off all round pieces.
Hungry Monster Crochet Candy Bag Instructions
Top of Monster’s Head
Note: The Top of Monster’s Head is worked in continuous rounds. I highly suggest the use of a stitch marker to mark the beginning/end of each round. As you complete a round, move the stitch marker up.
Rnd 1 (MC): Using a 5.00mm crochet hook, ch 21, 3 sc in 2nd ch from your hook, sc in each of the next 18 chs, 3 sc in last ch, rotate to work along the bottom of the foundation ch, sc in each of the next 18 chs. (42 sts)
Rnd 2: [2 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc in each of the next 18 sts] work from [ to ] twice. (48 sts)
Rnd 3: [ (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next st) 3 times, sc in each of the next 18 sts] work from [ to ] twice. (54 sts)
Rnd 4: sc in each of the next 4sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 26 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 22 sts. (56 sts)
Rnds 5 – 9: Sc in each st around. (56 sts) Do not fasten off. Continue on to Creating the Mouth Opening.
Creating the Mouth Opening
Row 1 (RS): *This is a partial row. Sc in each of the next 13 sts. Turn. (13 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 40 sts. Turn. (40 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc in each of the next 26 sts, 2 sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc in each of the next 5 sts. Turn. (44 sts)
Rows 4 – 5: Ch 1, 2 sc in the same st as ch 1, sc in each st across to the last st, 2 sc in the last st. Turn. (48 sts) at the end of Row 5.
Rows 6 – 7: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn (48 sts
Row 8: Ch 1, 2 sc in the same st as ch 1, sc in each st across to the last st, 2 sc in the last st. Turn. (50 sts)
Row 9: Ch 1, 2 sc in the same st as ch 1, sc in each st across to the last st, 2 sc in the next st, loosely ch 8, skip over the gap created by the mouth and join yarn w/ a sc in the next st (first st of this rnd). (52 sts + 8 chs + sc join)
Do not fasten off. Do not Turn. Continue on to Body of Monster.
Body of Monster
Go back to working in continuous rounds. Make sure to move your stitch marker up as you complete each round.
Rnd 1 (RS): Sc in each st and ch around. (60 sts) See photo above.
Rnd 2: Sc in each of the next 9 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 30 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 19 sts. (62 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. (62 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in each of the next 10 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 31 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 19 sts. (64 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc in each st around. (64 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc in each of the next 11 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 32 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 19 sts. (66 sts)
Rnd 7: Sc in each st around. (66 sts)
Rnd 8: Sc in each of the next 12 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 33 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 19 sts. (68 sts)
Rnd 9: Sc in each st around. (68 sts)
Rnd 10: Sc in each of the next 13 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 34 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 19 sts. (70 sts)
Rnd 11: Sc in each st around. (70 sts)
Rnd 12: Sc in each of the next 14 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 35 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 19 sts. (72 sts)
Rnd 13: Sc in each st around. (72 sts)
Rnd 14: Sc in each of the next 15 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 36 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 19 sts. (74 sts)
Rnd 15: Sc in each st around. (74 sts)
Rnd 16: Sc in each of the next 16 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 37 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 19 sts. (76 sts)
Rnd 17: Sc in each st around. (76 sts)
Rnd 18: Sc in each of the next 17 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 38 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 19 sts. (78 sts)
Rnd 19: Sc in each st around. (78 sts)
Rnd 20: Sc in each of the next 18 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 39 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 19 sts. (80 sts)
Rnd 21: Sc in each st around. (80 sts)
Rnd 22: Sc in each of the next 19 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 40 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 19 sts. (82 sts)
Rnd 23: Sc in each st around. (82 sts)
Rnd 24: Sc in each of the next 20 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 41 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 19 sts. (84 sts)
Rnd 25: Sc in each st around. (84 sts)
Rnd 26: Sc in each of the next 21 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 42 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 19 sts. (86 sts)
Rnd 27: Sc in each st around. (86 sts)
Do not fasten off. Continue on to Wavy Edges.
Wavy Edges
Set-up: BLO sl st in each of the next 6 sts. Does not count in stitch count and is only done to move the beginning of the rows over without having to fasten off and weave in more ends. Make sure to move your SM over.
First Wave
Row 1: Sc in each of the next 32 sts. Turn. (32 sts)
Rows 2 – 9: Ch 1, skip the first st, sc in each st across to the last st, (skip the last st). Turn. (16 sts at the end of Row 9)
Fasten off. Continue on to Second Wave.
Second Wave
Row 1: Join yarn w/ a sc into the next st on Row 27 of the Body of Monster, sc in each of the next 10 sts. Turn. (11 sts)
Rows 2 – 5: Ch 1, skip the first st, sc in each st across to the last st, (skip the last st). Turn. (3 sts at the end of Row 5)
Fasten off. Continue on to Third Wave.
Third Wave
Row 1: Join yarn w/a sc into the next st of Row 27 of the Body of Monster, sc in each of the next 31 sts. Turn. (32 sts)
Rows 2 – 9: Ch 1, skip the first st, sc in each st across to the last st, (skip the last st). Turn. (16 sts at the end of Row 9)
Fasten off. Continue on to Fourth Wave.
Fourth Wave
Row 1: Join yarn w/ a sc into the next st of Row 27 of the Body of Monster, sc in each of the next 10 sts. Turn. (11 sts)
Rows 2 – 5: Ch 1, skip the first st, sc in each st across to the last st, (skip the last st). Turn. (3 sts at the end of Row 5)
Fasten off. Weave in all ends. Continue on to Seam to Join the Waves.
Seam to Join the Waves
Lay the bag flat with the front facing you. Join yarn w/ a sc through both layers, in the st furthest to the right, sc in each st across the bottom of the bag working down and up the waves. Stitch count isn’t crucial. See photos below. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Continue on to Edging the Mouth Opening.
Edging the Mouth Opening
Join yarn w/ a sc in any st around the mouth opening, sc in each st and side of each row around the opening. Join w/ a sl st to the 1st st. Stitch count isn’t crucial. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Continue on to Inside Mouth Panel.
Inside Mouth Panel
Row 1 (orange): Ch 21, sc in the 2nd ch from your hook and in each ch across. Turn. (20 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (20 sts) Rep Row 2 until panel measures a minimum of 3″.
Fasten off. Weave in ends. Continue on to Teeth.
Teeth ~ Make 3
Row 1 (white): Ch 5, sc in the 2nd ch from your hook and in each ch across. Turn. (4 sts)
Rows 2 – 4: Ch 1, skip the 1st st, sc in each remaining st across. Turn. (1 st) at the end of Row 4.
Fasten off. Weave in ends. Make as many teeth as you’d like. Continue on to Whites of the Eyes.
Whites of the Eyes ~ Make 2
Eyes are worked in continuous rounds.
Rnd 1 (white): Ch 4, sl st into 4th ch to form a ring, ch 1, work 8 sc into ring. (8 sts)
Rnd 2: [2 sc into each of the next 2 sts, 2 hdc into each of the next 2 sts] work from [ to ] twice. Join w/ a sl st to the 1st st. (16 sts)
Fasten off leaving a 10″ tail of yarn for sewing. Continue on to Pupils.
Pupils ~ Make 2
Rnd 1 (black): Ch 2, work 6 sc into the 2nd ch from your hook. Join w/ a sl st to the 1st st. (6 sts)
Fasten off leaving an 8″ tail of yarn for sewing. Continue on to Arms.
Arms (handle)
Arms are worked in continuous rounds.
Color scheme: 2 rounds orange, 2 rounds purple, 2 round green. I started with and ended with 2 rounds of orange.
The color change technique I used I found on this blog here: http://needlenoodles.com/home/?q=node/139
Rnd 1 (orange): Ch 17, sc in the 2nd ch from your hook and in each ch across. (16 sts)
Rnd 2 (orange): Bring the last st from Rnd 1 to meet the 1st st from Rnd 1, begin Rnd 2 by working the 1st st from Rnd 2 into the 1st st from Rnd 1, sc in each st around.
Rnds 3 – 80 (or until length reaches 21″): Sc in each st around. Switch colors every other round.
Fasten off. Stitch gap closed between the first and last stitches of Rnd 1. Weave in ends. Continue on to Spider’s Body.
Spider’s Body ~ Make as many as you wish!
Rnd 1 (green, orange, or purple): Ch 2, work 6 sc into the 2nd ch from your hook. Join w/ a sl st to the 1st st. (6 sts)
Fasten off leaving an 12″ tail of yarn for sewing & making legs. Continue on to Finishing.
Finishing ~ See Photos Below
- Eyes: Using a yarn needle and black yarn tail, sew 1 pupil to each white eye. Using a yarn needle and white yarn, sew the eyes onto the bag above the mouth opening. See photos.
- Teeth: Using a yarn needle and black yarn, sew teeth onto the inside edge of the mouth opening in any position you’d like. See photo for ideas.
- Inside Mouth Panel: Position the panel inside the monster’s mouth, long edge of the panel in a horizontal position, just above the top edge of the mouth opening (and above where you sewed the teeth on). Using a yarn needle and black yarn, sew the panel to the inside of the bag. Sew the top edge of the panel only.
- Arms: Position one short end of the arm on the side of the head with top edge of the arm lined up with the top edge of the mouth. Using a yarn needle and 14-18″ piece of orange yarn, sew that end onto the head. Before sewing the opposite side on, twist the arm halfway around (this will help it lay more nicely) and then sew it onto the other side of the head. See photos.
- Spider Web Strings: Add strings of spider webbing using white yarn and a surface crochet (Click HERE for tutorial) coming from the monster’s mouth. Make them each different lengths. Weave in ends. The ends nearest his mouth I wrapped around the edge of the mouth opening to make them appear as if coming out of his mouth. See pics.
- Spiders: Using a yarn needle and tail of yarn, sew 1 spider on the bag at the end of each spider web string. After attaching the spider’s body, use the extra yarn to make little legs (the legs on mine are approximately 1/2″ long). If you choose to make more than a couple spiders, sew them on wherever you’d like. See pics.
- Optional: If the top of his head leans forward or backwards, simply tack stitch his arms to the side of his head about 1.5″ up from where you attached them.
- Weave in any ends that are left.
Your little monster is hungry, go feed him! 😀
MORE FREE CROCHET PATTERNS FROM A CROCHETED SIMPLICITY
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