Crochet Mittens Pattern – Frosty Air
Learn how to crochet the Frosty Air Mittens with this crochet mittens pattern.
Made with just one skein of bulky-weight yarn, these chunky, knit-look crochet mittens work up in about 2 hours, making them a perfect last minute, quick crochet gift!
You’ll find the free crochet mittens pattern below, or an ad-free print-friendly version (including all photo tutorials) on Ravelry, or on Etsy (aff).
For Customized Leather, Cork, and Wood Labels, I highly recommend All This Wood on Etsy! I used a 1″ x 2″ leather label for my crocheted mittens.
The Frosty Air mittens crochet pattern is a great unisex style mitten pattern. Made in a dark greige colorway, they’d make the perfect mens crochet mittens.
Quick one skein projects are among my favorites. I like that they help to use up random balls of leftover yarn from larger projects. They also make great last minute, quick crochet gifts, and they’re small crochet projects, which makes them the perfect size for traveling.
The Frosty Air crochet mittens pattern is a great one skein chunky yarn crochet pattern. It’s compact and easy to travel with, uses only one ball of bulky yarn, and makes a great gift for a family member, friend, or co-worker!
Knit-Look Crochet
I LOVE knit-look crochet and all of the different stitches and techniques we can crochet to create it. My favorite part about knit-look crochet is combining different slip stitches with crochet short rows to make stretchy, knit look crochet mittens with nicely tapered tips.
I’ve used several combinations of crochet stitches and short rows to create many different knit-look crochet hats. In addition to slip stitches and short rows, they all have one more thing in common, the stitches are mainly worked into one loop only, either the back loop only (BLO), or front loop only (FLO).
For the Frosty Air Crochet Mittens, I also used crochet short rows and slip stitches worked into the back and front loops, but then I added a little twist. I took knit-look crochet stitches one step further and used inverse slip stitches!
Don’t fret! Inverse stitches sound much more complicated than they are. Inverse stitches are worked the same as regular stitches, except you insert your crochet hook into a stitch from back to front, instead of front to back.
First, I’ll show you how to crochet inverse slip stitches. Then, I’ll teach you how to work something I like to call a “smoothing stitch”!
Inverse Crochet Slip Stitches
There are two crochet inverse slip stitches, the Inverse Front Loop Only Slip Stitch (iF sl st) and the Inverse Back Loop Only Slip Stitch (iB sl st). The only difference between these two stitches is that one is worked in the front loop only and the other is worked in the back loop only, but they each produce a distinctly different looking stitch.
I have a video tutorial for the iB sl st that will help you master these stitches. You work the iF sl st the same way, except it’s worked into the front loop only.
Let’s learn each of these two knit-look stitches before we begin crocheting mittens.
How to Crochet an Inverse Front Loop Only Slip Stitch (IF SL ST)
Inverse Front Loop Only Slip Stitch (iF sl st): With the working yarn in front of your work, insert your hook into the front loop of the next stitch from back to front, yo, pull up a loop and pull that loop through the loop on your hook.
How to Crochet an Inverse Back Loop Only Slip Stitch (IB SL ST)
Inverse Back Loop Only Slip Stitch (iB sl st): With the working yarn in front of your work, insert your hook into the back loop of the next stitch from back to front, yo, pull up a loop and pull that loop through the loop on your hook.
There are step-by-step photos below, and I also have a video tutorial for this stitch.
Related: Learn to crochet Reversible Knit-Look Ribbing, Knit-Look Garter Stitch, and How to Add a Stretchy, Knit-Look Cuff to Your Crochet.
How to Work a Smoothing Stitch
How do you seamlessly transition from a short row to a regular row? With this one simple trick, we will learn how to work a “smoothing stitch”.
A smoothing stitch seamlessly transitions from short rows to regular rows without leaving little bumps between the rows.
This isn’t an “extra” stitch worked in a row. The smoothing stitch counts as the first back loop only slip stitch (BLO sl st) that you will work whenever transitioning from a short row to a regular row.
How to Crochet Mittens
These crochet mittens aren’t constructed like a basic crochet mitten that’s worked from the cuff to the tip, or vice versa. These chunky crochet mittens are crocheted flat, side to side, then seamed, making this a one piece crochet mitten pattern.
When you crochet mittens with short rows, it means you’ll be crocheting the mittens sideways, back and forth in rows, usually from the mitten cuff to the tip of the mitt.
You’ll begin by crocheting a gusset and thumb to size, with the help of crochet short rows to shape it.
Then you’ll continue and work the body of the mitten directly onto part of the thumb and gusset section.
The body of the mitten section is worked sideways from the cuff to the tip of the mitten. Short rows are used to shape the tip of the mitten and fit the crochet cuff. Each section will create a pie shaped wedge at the mitten tip to reduce the bulkiness of your mittens.
After completing the body of mitten, you’ll whipstitch the side seam of the mitten and also the side of the thumb.
Bulky Crochet Yarn
For this chunky crochet mitten pattern, I chose to use Lion Brand Yarns Hue & Me. Hue & Me is a bulky yarn, acrylic and wool blend, that is available in 30 gorgeous colorways! In this carefully curated palette, each color pairs well with the others, so you’ll never have to wonder “will this match?”.
Each ball of Hue & Me yarn comes with 137 yards making it a great choice for a one ball of yarn chunky mittens!
If you’ve been looking for one skein crochet projects with bulky yarn, these slip stitch crochet mittens check the box!
Did you know? Chunky yarn and bulky yarn are one in the same and the terms are used interchangeably.
Yarn Substitutes
If you don’t have access to Lion Brand Hue & Me, but would love to make this free crochet mitten pattern for adults, no worries! I’ve got a couple great options for you to check out.
When I haven’t used a yarn before and need to find a yarn substitution, the first thing I do is to check YarnSub.com to look for a comparable yarn.
If you’re unable to find a suitable bulky yarn, the next best thing is to hold 2 strands of a lighter worsted yarn together (by lighter worsted I mean a 4 weight yarn, not DK 3 weight yarn). For example, I’ve held together 2 strands of Lion Brand Wool Ease or Pound of Love when I’ve needed a chunky yarn.
I highly recommend that when holding 2 strands together, it’s best to do a crochet swatch to make sure that the 2 yarns you’re holding together will work for these knit-look crochet mittens.
Frosty Air Crochet Mittens – Free Crochet Mittens Pattern
The crochet pattern for mittens is free below, but if you love to work offline, I’ve got a couple other great options for you.
Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF, including all photo tutorials, on Ravelry, or on Etsy (aff).
Purchase the chunky crochet beanie and mittens kit! (aff): Lion Brand has a full kit of the Frosty Air Crochet Beanie & Mittens Set, available on their website. The beanie & mittens kit includes your choice of colors and a digital copy of the crochet patterns for both the Frosty Air Beanie & Mittens.
This post contains affiliate links.
Materials
- Yarn: Chunky Weight / 5 / Yarn, Lion Brand Yarns Hue & Me was used for the sample in the photos, (125 g / 4.4 oz / 137 yards / 125 m / 80% acrylic / 20% wool).
- Artichoke: 1 ball (137 yards)
- Crochet Hook: L/8.00mm; or size needed to obtain gauge (My favorite crochet hooks are the Clover Amour Crochet Hooks, I’ve never had an ache in my hands since switching).
- Locking Stitch Markers
- Scissors
- Yarn Needle
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch(s): chain(s)
- sl st(s): slip stitch(es)
- st(s): stitch(es)
- yo: yarn over
- FLO sl st: front loop only slip stitch
- BLO sl st: front loop only slip stitch
- iF sl st: inverse front loop only slip stitch
- iB sl st: inverse back loop only slip stitch
- SM: stitch marker
- Rep: repeat
- RS: Right Side
- WS: Wrong Side
- BHO: back hump only
- BLO: back loop only
- FLO: front loop only
Experience Level
- Easy / Intermediate
GAUGE
- In BLO sl st: 8 sts = 3″ W; 12 rows = 3.75″ H
Sizes
- Small: 4″ W x 8″ L (laid flat)
- Medium: 4″ W x 8.5″ L (laid flat)
- Large: 4.5″ W x 9″ L (laid flat)
Special Stitches
- Front Loop Only Slip Stitch (FLO sl st): With the working yarn behind your work, insert your hook from front to back into the front loop only of the next stitch, yo, pull up a loop and pull that loop through the loop on your hook.
- Back Loop Only Slip Stitch (BLO sl st): With the working yarn behind your work, insert your hook from front to back into the back loop only of the next stitch, yo, pull up a loop and pull that loop through the loop on your hook.
- Inverse Front Loop Only Slip Stitch (iF sl st): With the working yarn in front of your work, insert your hook into the front loop of the next stitch from back to front, yo, pull up a loop and pull that loop through the loop on your hook. See photo tutorial above.
- Inverse Back Loop Only Slip Stitch (iB sl st): With the working yarn in front of your work, insert your hook into the back loop of the next stitch from back to front, yo, pull up a loop and pull that loop through the loop on your hook. See photo tutorial above.
Pattern Notes
- Turning chains are not counted as stitches, unless specified otherwise.
- The first stitch of each row is worked into the same stitch as the turning chain, unless noted otherwise.
- Yarn Notes: Lion Brand Yarns Hue & Me was used for the samples. Another comparable bulky weight / 5 yarn may be used as long as gauge is met.
- Lion Brand Yarns Hue & Me, bulky weight / 5 yarn, 80% Acrylic / 20% Wool (137 yds / 125 m / 125 g / 4.4 oz)
- Yardage
- Artichoke: #617-171X – 1 Ball (137 yards)
- Changes for Sizes as Follows: Small (Medium, Large)
- Changes for Stitch Counts as Follows: (Small, Medium, Large)
- Mitten Construction: This knit-look crochet mitten is worked sideways in rows from cuff to the tip of the fingers. You’ll begin by crocheting a gusset and thumb to size using a couple crochet short rows to help shape it. Then you’ll continue and work the body of the mitten onto the thumb and gusset section. After completing the body of mitten, you’ll whipstitch the side seam of the mitten and also the side of the thumb.
Chunky Crochet Mittens Pattern
Thumb & Gusset (Make 2)
Gauge: With 8.00mm hook, in BLO sl st: 17 sts = 6.25″; 9 rows = 2.5″
Changes for sizes written as follows: Small (Medium, Large)
Row 1 (RS): With yarn & an 8.00mm crochet hook (or size needed to obtain gauge), ch 18 (20, 21), working into the back hump of the foundation ch, sl st into the 2nd ch from your hook, sl st into each of the next 10 (12, 13) chs, skip the remaining 6 chs. Turn. (11, 13, 14 sl sts + 6 ch’s) *Length of Row 1: 6.25″ (7″, 7.25″).
Row 2: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each st across. Turn. (11, 13, 14 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the next 7 sts, skip the remaining 4 (6, 7) sts. Turn. (7, 7, 7 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each st across. Turn. (7, 7, 7 sts)
Note: In Row 5, I will show you how to seamlessly transition from short rows to regular rows using a smoothing stitch.
Row 5: Ch 1, BLO sl st into each of the first 7 sts, BLO sl st into each of the next 4 (6, 7) sts from Row 2, BHO sl st into each of the remaining 6 chs from Row 1. Turn. (17, 19, 20 sts)
Next, insert your hook into the BLO of the next skipped stitch from 2 rows prior.
Then yarn over, pull up a loop, pull that loop through all 3 loops on your hook to complete what I call a “smoothing stitch”.
The photo above shows Row 5, continuing to BLO sl st after working a smoothing stitch. The yarn needle shows the ch-1 from a previous row where you insert your hook to begin the next smoothing stitch.
The photo above shows another smoothing stitch being worked in Row 5 to seamlessly to working into the beginning chain.
The photo above shows the smoothing stitch complete so you can finish Row 5.
The photo above shows Row 5 complete.
Row 6: Ch 1, BLO sl st into each st across. Turn. (17, 19, 20 sts)
The photo above shows Row 6 complete.
Row 7: Ch 1, BLO sl st into each of the first 11 (13, 14) sts, skip the remaining 6 sts. Turn. (11, 13, 14 sts)
The photo above shows Row 7 complete (another short row).
Row 8: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each st across. Turn. (11, 13, 14 sts)
Row 9: Ch 1, BLO sl st into each of the first 11 (13, 14) sts, BLO sl st into each of the remaining 6 chs from Row 7. Turn. (17, 19, 20 sts)
The photo above shows the beginning of Row 9 worked up to the next smoothing stitch.
The photo above shows the smoothing stitch in Row 9 complete.
The photo above shows Row 9 complete. The Thumb & Gusset is complete.
Do not fasten off. Continue on to Body of Mitten for the size mittens you’re making.
Thumb & Gusset should measure approximately:
Small: Width of Wide End: 2.5″ | Width of Narrow End: 1.125″ | Length: 6.25″
Medium: Width of Wide End: 2.5″ | Width of Narrow End: 1.125″ | Length: 7″
Large: Width of Wide End: 2.5″ | Width of Narrow End: 1.125″ | Length: 7.25″
Size Small – Body of Mitten (Make 2)
Set-Up Row (WS): Continue on from the Gusset & Thumb with an 8.00mm crochet hook (or size needed to obtain gauge), BLO sl st in each of the first 10 sts, ch 18, skip each of the last 7 sts from the gusset & thumb piece. (10 sts + 18 chs)
Shows Body of Mitten Set-Up complete.
Note: In Row 1, you’ll be working some stitches into the back hump (BHO) of the foundation chain, some stitches into the front loop (FLO) of the foundation chain, and other stitches into the BLO & FLO of stitches from the previous row. The front loop is the loop closest to you when the back hump of the chain is facing up.
Row 1 (RS): Working into the back hump of the foundation ch, sl st into the 2nd ch from your hook, BHO sl st in each of the next 4 chs, FLO sl st in each of the next 4 chs, BHO sl st in each of the next 4 chs, FLO sl st in each of the next 4 chs, BLO sl st in each of the 10 remaining sts. Turn. (27 sts) *Approximate length of Row 1: 10″.
The photo above shows Row 1 of Body of Mitten being worked.
The photo above shows Row 1 of Body of Mitten complete.
Tip: Before turning, place a SM in the FLO of the first stitch of Row 1 & every odd numbered row throughout. If you haven’t worked short rows before, this will help you complete Row 12 & the end of each short row section after Row 12.
Row 2: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 6 sts, (BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, skip the last st. Turn. (26 sts)
The photo above shows Row 2 complete.
Row 3: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 4 sts, (Inv FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, skip each of the last 6 sts. Turn. (20 sts)
The photo above shows Row 3 complete (this is a short row).
Row 4: Ch 1, (Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 3 sts, skip the last st. Turn. (19 sts)
Row 5: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 3 sts, (FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, Inv FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 6 previously skipped sts from Row 3. Turn. (25 sts)
This photo shows Row 5 complete. Don’t forget to work a smoothing stitch between the short rows and regular rows.
Row 6: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 6 sts, (BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 2 sts, skip the last st. Turn. (24 sts)
This photo shows Row 6 complete.
Row 7: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 2 sts, (Inv FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, skip each of the last 6 sts. Turn. (18 sts)
The above photo shows Row 7 complete (this is a short row).
Row 8: Ch 1, (Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in the next st, skip the last st. Turn. (17 sts)
The photo above shows Row 8 complete.
Row 9: Ch 1, BLO sl st in the first st, (FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, Inv FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 6 previously skipped sts from Row 7. Turn. (23 sts)
The photo above shows Row 9 complete.
Row 10: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 6 sts, (BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, skip the last st. Turn. (22 sts)
The photo above shows Row 10 complete.
Row 11: Ch 1, (Inv FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in each of the last 6 sts. Turn. (22 sts)
The photo above shows Row 11 complete.
Row 12: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 6 sts, (Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in each unworked st to Row 1. Turn. (27 sts)
The photo above shows Row 12 worked across Row 11 sts, up to the short rows.
The photo above shows smoothing stitches being worked as you complete Row 12 by BLO sl st in each unworked stitch to Row 1.
The photo above shows Row 12 complete.
Remove SM’s after completing this row. Row height at this point should be 3.75″.
The photo above shows Row 12 completed, before you turn to begin Row 13.
The photo above shows what your crochet mitten will look like after completing Row 12 and turning to the RS to begin Row 13.
Row 13: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 5 sts, (FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, Inv FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in each of the last 6 sts. Turn. (27 sts)
The photo above shows Row 13 complete. Remember to place a SM in the FLO of the 1st stitch of each odd numbered row to help you complete the next short row section.
Rows 14 – 23: Rep Rows 2 – 11.
Row 24: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 6 sts, (Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in each unworked st to Row 13. Turn. (27 sts)
The photo above shows the slip stitch mitten complete and ready to be seamed.
Fasten off. Weave in ends. Continue below to the Mitten Seam.
Size Medium – Body of Mitten (Make 2)
Set-Up Row (WS): Continue on from the Gusset & Thumb with an 8.00mm crochet hook (or size needed to obtain gauge), BLO sl st in each of the first 12 sts, ch 18, skip each of the last 7 sts from the gusset & thumb piece. (12 sts + 18 chs)
Note: In Row 1, you’ll be working some stitches into the back hump (BHO) of the foundation chain, some stitches into the front loop (FLO) of the foundation chain, and other stitches into the BLO & FLO of stitches from the previous row. The front loop is the loop closest to you when the back hump of the chain is facing up.
Row 1 (RS): Working into the back hump of the foundation ch, sl st into the 2nd ch from your hook, BHO sl st in each of the next 6 chs, FLO sl st in each of the next 4 chs, BHO sl st in each of the next 4 chs, FLO sl st in each of the next 2 chs, Inv FLO sl st in each of the next 2 sts, BLO sl st in each of the 10 remaining sts. Turn. (29 sts) *Approximate length of Row 1: 10.5″.
Tip: Before turning, place a SM in the FLO of the first stitch of Row 1 & every odd numbered row throughout. If you haven’t worked short rows before, this will help you complete Row 12 & the end of each short row section after Row 12.
Row 2: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 6 sts, (BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 6 sts, skip the last st. Turn. (28 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 6 sts, (Inv FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, skip each of the last 6 sts. Turn. (22 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, (Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 5 sts, skip the last st. Turn. (21 sts)
Row 5: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 5 sts, (FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, Inv FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 6 previously skipped sts from Row 3. Turn. (27 sts)
Row 6: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 6 sts, (BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, skip the last st. Turn. (26 sts)
Row 7: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 4 sts, (Inv FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, skip each of the last 6 sts. Turn. (20 sts)
Row 8: Ch 1, (Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in the next 3 sts, skip the last st. Turn. (19 sts)
Row 9: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 3 sts, (FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, Inv FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 6 previously skipped sts from Row 7. Turn. (25 sts) Remember to work a smoothing stitch when transitioning between short rows and regular rows.
Row 10: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 6 sts, (BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 2 sts, skip the last st. Turn. (24 sts)
Row 11: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 2 sts, (Inv FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in each of the last 6 sts. Turn. (24 sts)
Row 12: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 6 sts, (Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 2 sts, BLO sl st in each unworked st to Row 1. Turn. (29 sts)
Remove SM’s after completing this row. Row height at this point should be 3.75″.
Row 13: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 7 sts, (FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, Inv FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in each of the last 6 sts. Turn. (29 sts)
Rows 14 – 23: Rep Rows 2 – 11.
Row 24: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 6 sts, (Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 2 sts, BLO sl st in each unworked st to Row 13. Turn. (29 sts)
Fasten off. Weave in ends. Continue on to Mitten Seam.
Size Large – Body of Mitten (Make 2)
Set-Up Row (WS): Continue on from the Gusset & Thumb with an 8.00mm crochet hook (or size needed to obtain gauge), BLO sl st in each of the first 13 sts, ch 19, skip each of the last 7 sts from the gusset & thumb piece. (13 sts + 19 chs)
Note: In Row 1, you’ll be working some stitches into the back hump (BHO) of the foundation chain, some stitches into the front loop (FLO) of the foundation chain, and other stitches into the BLO & FLO of stitches from the previous row. The front loop is the loop closest to you when the back hump of the chain is facing up.
Row 1 (RS): Working into the back hump of the foundation ch, sl st into the 2nd ch from your hook, BHO sl st in each of the next 4 chs, FLO sl st in each of the next 4 chs, BHO sl st in each of the next 4 chs, FLO sl st in each of the next 4 chs, BHO sl st in the next ch, BLO sl st in each of the next 3 sts, Inv FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, BLO sl st in each of the 6 remaining sts. Turn. (31 sts) *Approximate length of Row 1: 11.25″.
Tip: Before turning, place a SM in the FLO of the first stitch of Row 1 & every odd numbered row throughout. If you haven’t worked short rows before, this will help you complete Row 12 & the end of each short row section after Row 12.
Row 2: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 6 sts, Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, (BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, skip the last st. Turn. (30 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 4 sts, (Inv FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, Inv FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, skip each of the last 6 sts. Turn. (24 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, (Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 3 sts, skip the last st. Turn. (23 sts)
Row 5: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 3 sts, (FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, Inv FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, BLO sl st in each of the next 6 previously skipped sts from Row 3. Turn. (29 sts)
Row 6: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 6 sts, Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, (BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 2 sts, skip the last st. Turn. (28 sts)
Row 7: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 2 sts, (Inv FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, Inv FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, skip each of the last 6 sts. Turn. (22 sts)
Row 8: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, (Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in the next st, skip the last st. Turn. (21 sts)
Row 9: Ch 1, BLO sl st in the first st, (FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, Inv FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, BLO sl st in each of the next 6 previously skipped sts from Row 7. Turn. (27 sts)
Row 10: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 6 sts, Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, (BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, skip the last st. Turn. (26 sts)
Row 11: Ch 1, (Inv FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, Inv FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, BLO sl st in each of the last 6 sts. Turn. (26 sts)
Row 12: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 10 sts, (Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in each unworked st to Row 1. Turn. (31 sts)
Remove SM’s after completing this row. Row height at this point should be 3.75″.
Row 13: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 5 sts, (FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, Inv FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, BLO sl st in each of the last 6 sts. Turn. (31 sts)
Rows 14 – 23: Rep Rows 2 – 11.
Row 24: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 10 sts, (Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in each unworked st to Row 13. Turn. (31 sts)
Row 25: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 5 sts, (FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, Inv FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, BLO sl st in each of the last 6 sts. Turn. (31 sts)
Row 26: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 6 sts, Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, (BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, skip the last st. Turn. (30 sts)
Row 27: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 4 sts, (Inv FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, Inv FLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, BLO sl st in each of the last 6 sts. Turn. (30 sts)
Row 28: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 10 sts, (Inv BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts) work from ( to ) 2 times, BLO sl st in each unworked st to Row 25. Turn. (31 sts)
Fasten off. Weave in ends. Continue on to the Mitten Seam.
Seaming Instructions
Use locking stitch markers to mark where you need to create seams and to hold the sections in place while seaming.
Thumb Seam
Step One: Place the mitten on a flat surface in front of you with the RS facing up. Fold the thumb in half as shown in the photo below. See photo below.
Step Two: Place a locking stitch marker in the corner stitches of the thumb to hold it in place. Place a second stitch marker in the 7th stitch down. See photo below above.
Step Three: Using a yarn needle and length of yarn 3-4 times the length of the seam to be made, whipstitch the outer loops of the stitches of the thumb together. Work from the bottom stitches you marked up towards the tip of the thumb. See photo below.
Step Four: Weave in and out of the stitches around the opening in the tip of the thumb, then pull tight to close. See photo below.
Weave in ends. Turn Thumb right side out. Continue on to Mitten Seam.
Mitten Seam
Step One: Place the mitten on a flat surface in front of you with the RS facing out, as shown in the photo below.
Step Two: Place locking stitch markers in the following stitches to mark the different loops you’ll seam along the side of the mitten and to hold it together while you seam. Then follow the instructions to whipstitch the edges together.
- Stitch Marker #1: Place a SM in the bottom corner of the cuff. This is where you’ll begin seaming.
- Stitch Marker #2: Place a SM in the 7th stitch from the bottom. This is where you’ll begin seaming through BOTH loops of both edges of the mitten.
- Stitch Marker #3: Skip 2 (4, 5) sts from the 2nd SM you placed and place a SM in the 4th (6th, 7th) st. This SM is to mark where the thumb joint will be. Make sure to seam the next couple stitches closed so there are no gaps. You’ll continue to whipstitch through BOTH loops of both edges.
- Stitch Marker #4: Now move to the tip of the mitten and place a SM in the very first stitch. This is the last stitch you will seam.
- Stitch Marker #5: Counting down from the SM you just placed at the tip of the mitten, skip 3 (5, 3) sts and place a SM in the next stitch. This SM is to mark where you will go back to working in BOTH loops of the left edge and the INSIDE LOOP ONLY of the right edge.
Whipstitch Edges Together
Begin Seam at SM #1: Using a yarn needle and length of yarn 3-4 times the length of the seam to be made, whipstitch BOTH loops of the left edge to the INSIDE LOOP ONLY of the right side. Whip stitch the first 6 stitches only.
Continue Seam: Whipstitch BOTH LOOPS of stitches from both edges beginning with SM #2 and ending in the stitch before SM #4. Make sure to close any gaps in the thumb joint before moving on with the seam.
Finish Seam: Whipstitch BOTH loops of the left edge to the INSIDE LOOP ONLY of the right side. Whipstitch the last 5 (7, 5) stitches together.
Use the tail of yarn left and weave in and out of the tip of the mitten. Pull to close the gap. Weave in all ends.
The photos below show a completed mitten. Crochet a second mitten and your pair will be complete!
QUESTIONS CROCHETERS FREQUENTLY ASK ABOUT CHUNKY CROCHET MITTEN PATTERNS
In addition to questions I’ve answered in this blog post above, below are some commonly asked questions about winter crochet mittens.
What is the difference between chunky and bulky yarn?
There is no difference between chunky and bulky yarns. They are one in the same. Both ‘bulky’ and ‘chunky’ are terms that refer to a size 5 yarn weight.
How much yarn do you need to crochet mittens?
The amount of yarn needed for crochet mittens varies from crochet pattern to crochet pattern depending on the weight of yarn used and even the crochet stitches that are used. Knit-look crochet mittens typically use less yarn than others.
For this crochet mitten pattern, you will need approximately 125 – 135 yards. This is less than one ball of Hue & Me yarn.
What is the warmest yarn for mittens?
A wool-acrylic blend yarn is scientifically warmer than wool alone. This is because acrylic isn’t breathable like wool is, so it holds the heat in. Wool will add to the durability of the mittens, making them last longer. This is why I believe that a wool-acrylic blend is the best yarn for mittens.
But, if you are someone who sweats more easily, you may prefer 100% wool because it’s warm and breathable.
Acrylic on its own is warm, but it’s not breathable. And not as warm as a wool-acrylic blend.
How many hours does it take to crochet mittens?
Again, the answer to this question will vary from one crochet mitten pattern to the next, but the Frosty Air Mittens can be completed in about 2.5 hours.
Is it hard to crochet mittens?
As with all other crochet projects, you will find crochet patterns for beginner crocheters through advanced. There are mitten patterns for beginners that use basic stitches and have no shaping. There are also mitten patterns for more advanced crocheters.
What can I make with one ball of yarn crochet?
There are many different projects you can crochet with one ball of yarn. Hats, mittens, scarves, and dishcloths seem to be the most common.
I MADE IT! NOW WHAT?
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MORE CROCHET PATTERNS FOR WINTER I THINK YOU’LL LOVE
MORE CHUNKY YARN CROCHET PATTERNS
Are you looking for more crochet patterns that use chunky yarn? We have several free crochet patterns for men and women, right here on our blog.
We have a variety of crochet patterns that use chunky yarn, such as scarves, cowls, hats, mitten crochet patterns, and more.
absolutely love the texture of these mittens